Sugesstions for a 60" EF 3D plane

[xlr8tion]

I have played with the tip on my 76/83 and I have decided to not ever use them again. They add wing area, but reduce the roll authority a lot.

Yeah....they make it more docile for idiots like me! I picked mine up today and it was a "shotgun" purchase in a busy parking lot with the guy in a hurry. Plane was cosmetically perfect and I check for all parts (tips/ sfgs/aileron spacers and wing and sfg bolts)......Check!

Plane looks to not have been flown as the wheels showed zero scuffage on anything. I am halfway home and notice no decals on fuse..NP call him and he says he will send them.

I get home and closely look at the electronics(bear in mind I had my 60lb Dutch Shepherd w.me and trying not to roll the crate on the Fuse in sharp turns).

Get home and upon close inspection notice the arming switch is zip tied under the battery tray wrapped in scotch tape and he is also running a Castle 10A BEC

Here's the plane again...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2256260&highlight=64+MXS

I slid the CF tube in and almost needed a hammer to get it in. Then the left wing will not flush up against the fuse from the midpoint to trailing edge...about 3/32" which wont allow the attachment tabs to align in the fuse.

SO....I emailed him and asked how he flew it and whats the deal with the Arming switch. He responded the wing SHOULD fit if I push it hard enough(look at thw center in the ad....see what i mean he does not have either wing pushed all the way in.

So I have to figure a way to determine if its a high point on the fuse where the wing joins where some (stringers or whatever) are NOT flush with the fuse off about 1/64 pr the ultracote is not cut away to expose the total wing insertion area. I will get it on but I do not think he flew it as he said the missing plastic spacers for the sfgs were probably stuck to the end on the wing..LOL...Well you, I thing only use those with SFGS alone and then the bolt goes through the spacer against the SFG-so :bull:

Kid was over his head and I get the feel he bought it LPU for m someone else and never flew it as I asked him what radio he used and he said he was not sure as he was new to the hobby.

So always the drama when I buy a plane and probably wont be needing those plastic washers for a while as I will use the training wheel tips!

Whew...that tired me out. Question......I never run external becs why would he have a Castle 10a BEC wired to the esc plug that the lipo plugs into when the Air Boss 80 has a 5A BEC 4.8 to 8.0 V?

Next weeks surprise the SEBART.

Cheers....
Greg

PS...I read the MXS manual...those ply wing joiner pieces with the hole come installed from the factory in each wing along with the anti rotation pins?

 

[Enterprise]

The airboss only goes up to 6V I think. One reason is to get 6.6V so you can maximize the 5245s. Another is just to have more headroom in the system than the built in one. Also some people just don't trust built in BECs. I run a lot of them because most do not support HV servo voltage. The new generator ones do like the Gecko, Mezon, and Castle Edge and Talon series.

 

[xlr8tion]

The airboss only goes up to 6V I think. One reason is to get 6.6V so you can maximize the 5245s. Another is just to have more headroom in the system than the built in one. Also some people just don't trust built in BECs. I run a lot of them because most do not support HV servo voltage. The new generator ones do like the Gecko, Mezon, and Castle Edge and Talon series.

Our Club is pretty "Anti electric" and the safety officer I talked to today said no Operational Arming switch-no fly at the field. Why would EF sell an ARF/Powerplant package that would not handle the servos....The Airboss 80 Elite is their top of the line ESC and has a 5A BEC.......I guess I am stuck having to put a ZTW in there that can handle the 5245's as this plane is BANNED with out an arming switch.

These guys actually say electrics are more dangerous than gassers(lipo fires and getting prop cut with no arm switch-if the ESC does not cut out if the throttle is accidentally advanced)-what a bunch of crotchety geezers!

And the safety officer is missing his 1/2 his middle finger from doing a solo run up on a 50 CC when the vertical Stab hold down failed.

Talk about irony!

 

[hone]

Plenty of people flying the power combos with 5245s. I flew the 60" Extra exp with that exact combo. The air boss works great with those servos and can handle them perfectly. The air boss only goes to 6v which is perfect for the 5245.

 

[xlr8tion]

Reattach the Airboss BEC?

Plenty of people flying the power combos with 5245s. I flew the 60" Extra exp with that exact combo. The air boss works great with those servos and can handle them perfectly. The air boss only goes to 6v which is perfect for the 5245.

I'd prefer not to run it the way it is wired as to many things look awry besides the non arming. The casle Bec is wired into the ESC plug and thats two wires to come loose. Also....I have include some rather bad quality shots....I will get better ones tomorrow. Is there any way to rewire the Airboss bec to the arm switch and uninstall the Castle 10ABEC? I think EF would have called for it if were necessary(an external bec).. Here are my quick pix...Tomorrow I will pull the cowl and get better ones.

Sorry about the angles...I have a big DSLR and the plane is in an awkward place on the bed I shot the photos on. Thanks!

BTW...I have an EF 48 EDGE and the edge 540T's Airboss 45 works fine-but those are smaller servos-65's and 85's.

Thanks sop much guys! If anyone thinks the AIRBOSS 80 (4A 6V) can't handle the 5245's please LMK...

Regards...


Greg

 

[gyro]

airboss is plenty fine for your application. The 5245 is one of EF's recommended servos, they've done plenty of testing on it.

If you want to remove the castle bec, just cut the wires off where they're attached to the main ESC leads, and remove it (apply electrical tape where needed).
Then, get rid of the tape from the red wire that was removed from the airboss servo style plug, and reinsert it into the plug.
Then use the setup as designed... the arming switch should work right away unless it was modified.

 

[xlr8tion]

Getting things straightened out on the MXS....

airboss is plenty fine for your application. The 5245 is one of EF's recommended servos, they've done plenty of testing on it.

If you want to remove the castle bec, just cut the wires off where they're attached to the main ESC leads, and remove it (apply electrical tape where needed).
Then, get rid of the tape from the red wire that was removed from the airboss servo style plug, and reinsert it into the plug.
Then use the setup as designed... the arming switch should work right away unless it was modified.

OK..so cut the Red and black BEC wires from the esc plug and then unplug servo wire from aux1 in RX. Then plug red wire that is wrapped with tape back into Airboss servo like lead and mount arming switch correct? Oh...forgot to mention Gary...he had a glacier 6S 3300 w/him and yet said he had to mount a small weight to the bottom of the tail in front of the rear tailwheel...Have you heard of the MXS having CG probs like that? He said he was, for 3 flights, running the Lipo against the CT tube sleeve almost......the weight was 50 mm long x 12mm wide x 1mm thick. The CF tube fits incredibly tight in the sleeve and the left wing still will not mount flush against the fuse along the fuse/wing interface with the 1/16" gap starting at the teh trailing edge moving 4" toward the leading edge...Culprits...high sot on fuse where cross brace penetrations through the fuse from the factor are 1/32 high? He could not have flown this plane as I put MEGA force on the wing and the left wing tabs would not approximate. Don't want to break the dremel out yet!



Thanks Gary for the ESC rewire info!!


Greg

PS...Anyone know what size those arming screw sizes are and a good vinyls company? Me got's no graphics!

 

[gyro]

Remove the weight, go fly, evaluate. It should be fine without it. I didn't need weight in mine, flew the same batts.

 

[xlr8tion]

Can't Fly

Remove the weight, go fly, evaluate. It should be fine without it. I didn't need weight in mine, flew the same batts.

With one wing bolted one. That is sort of a problem I thought, epically, someone on the forum might have had and some suggestions to locate the high spot without starting a ginding session and FUBAR a wing. I just mentioned weight as an oddity.

The Wing is mission critical.......the tailweight is the least of my worries.

Thanks.

Greg

 

[gyro]

Try working a small wooden dowel with some fine grit sand paper down the receiver tube in the wing that isn't fitting properly