Group Build, 20cc Profile ARF, Who's In?
- Thread starter Bartman
- Start date
grumman-cats
50cc
I like the way they built that fuselage. Unfortunately I have to many other projects at the moment. I have an RCGF 20cc that needs a home.
flycanic
70cc twin V2
I guess I could have just said Drill the doubler's full of holes to lighten it up, but I like Cheese Cake LOL!!
flycanic
70cc twin V2
I am also going to replace the aluminum gear that came with this Yak with OMP Tetherite profile gear. a tad heavier but does not bend and is stronger. I prefer this gear because I Love doing the Hover to landing with a roll out of 5 to 10 ft. Here is the link for the gear I prefer for Profiles, if anyone is interested
http://ohiomodelplanes.com/tetherite/
http://ohiomodelplanes.com/tetherite/
pawnshopmike
Staff member
Thanks for the link Jerry. Which size are you using?
I am doing kind of the same thing. I just received these landing gear and will put them on shortly. The stock ones are very soft.
http://www.wrongwayrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_70&product_id=385
http://www.wrongwayrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_70&product_id=385
Bartman
Defender of the Noob!
So give it a home! The more the merrier!
We did something like this over at multirotorforums.com and the thread has almost 800 replies and just under 96,000 views! I don't even know how many people have used the thread to get their first multi-rotor heli built done successfully.
Here's the thread
http://multirotorforums.com/threads/group-build-2014-dji-naza-f450-quadcopter.13431/
All y'all can jump in whenever you're ready, we'll get it going and it'll be here for eternity (or until I stop paying the hosting bills!
)
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Bartman
Defender of the Noob!
Now that we've got the thread going and while I'm waiting for my airframe to arrive I thought we'd take a look at why we're using a 20cc profile airframe as the subject of our group build. Since the goal of the group build is to help people new to larger RC planes to successfully make the transition, I'll be explaining things in more detail than what we might normally do in regular posts.
At any time, point it out if I'm wrong or if there's a better way to do things. Maybe I'll agree, maybe I won't but we'll discuss it like friends and everyone will learn something.
Moving right along, if you're new to RC planes or if you've been flying electric foamies or smaller nitro planes, the big question when going big is usually related to the how's and why's of gas engines. Similarly, if you're going big with electric power the questions usually center around higher cell count battery packs and the more powerful chargers needed to re-charge them. Following the questions related to power the next round of questions will usually turn to bigger servos and how to get power to them without causing the receiver to brown-out (brown-out is what happens to the receiver when there is so much power being sent to the servos that the receiver isn't getting enough electricity and it begins to fade and lose contact with the transmitter).
So knowing that engines and batteries and running lots of big servos will make things complicated, our group build should be more simple so that we can get it built and flying successfully for as many people as possible.
Enter the 20cc profile class of airframes.
It hasn't been big news around the hobby but the 20cc class of airframes have been selling out. Do a search and see for yourself, or better yet, click HERE .....most everywhere you look they're sold out. It's no surprise, they're less expensive than the big airframes and the servos/engines/props/etc. are smaller so they're cheaper too. But while the equipment is less expensive the fun factor is easily as high as any of the larger airframes, maybe higher! If the purpose of the group build is to have fun, with as many members as possible, while also helping people new to bigger RC planes to make the jump successfully.....then IMHO the 20cc class of airframes are perfect for the mission.
There are a handful of vendors/manufacturers building ARF's in the 20cc profile class and we can discuss them here, I don't have a problem with that. The reason I chose the RedwingRC for my build was that they have thirteen models to choose from, their prices are very competitive, and we've seen people here at the site that have had good experiences with them. You can just as easily choose some other 20cc model from some other manufacturer and join us in the group build thread......provided we don't turn it into a pissing match between manufacturers.....that would violate our "go along to get along" vibe that we enjoy here. Want to build an Aeroworks Pro 260? go for it, let us know how it works out for you? Aerobeez? have fun, share how it's going with us. We're here to have fun with RC planes and to help others to do the same.
A quick side note............you're welcome to do a kit build and still participate here. building from kits is AWESOME so if that's your preference please feel free to post your progress as we post ours. We also love non-powered airframes so if you decide to make a slope-soarer out of your 20cc profile plane, let us know how that works for you!!
Having said all of that let's look at what we'll need to assemble our 20cc profile ARF assuming we're going the gas fuel route. Here it is in list form;
With all of that in mind, you'll need to make some decisions as to what parts you're going to go with. In some cases the shop selling the ARF/kit will also have the other components, if you're lucky they'll be bundled together as a combo and you'll probably save a few bucks by going that route. As you continue to build and fly though you'll develop preferences as to what brands you like and then the combos might suit your tastes.
I would normally go the route that I think most of you that are new will go so that I can show the steps and you can just follow along but I know we've got a few people waiting to begin posting photos and I know they're using gas engines so I'm going to build mine as an electric and we'll let our other members here post the details for a gas fuel build.
I hope this post answered a few questions or showed how we're going to do this build in greater detail than you might have seen before.
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ASK QUESTIONS.....THIS BUILD IS THE 20CC PROFILE ASK-ANYTHING ZONE....WE'LL ANSWER EVERYTHING WITH A SMILE.
Moving right along, I've got to see if I've got a tracking number yet...............
At any time, point it out if I'm wrong or if there's a better way to do things. Maybe I'll agree, maybe I won't but we'll discuss it like friends and everyone will learn something.
Moving right along, if you're new to RC planes or if you've been flying electric foamies or smaller nitro planes, the big question when going big is usually related to the how's and why's of gas engines. Similarly, if you're going big with electric power the questions usually center around higher cell count battery packs and the more powerful chargers needed to re-charge them. Following the questions related to power the next round of questions will usually turn to bigger servos and how to get power to them without causing the receiver to brown-out (brown-out is what happens to the receiver when there is so much power being sent to the servos that the receiver isn't getting enough electricity and it begins to fade and lose contact with the transmitter).
So knowing that engines and batteries and running lots of big servos will make things complicated, our group build should be more simple so that we can get it built and flying successfully for as many people as possible.
Enter the 20cc profile class of airframes.
It hasn't been big news around the hobby but the 20cc class of airframes have been selling out. Do a search and see for yourself, or better yet, click HERE .....most everywhere you look they're sold out. It's no surprise, they're less expensive than the big airframes and the servos/engines/props/etc. are smaller so they're cheaper too. But while the equipment is less expensive the fun factor is easily as high as any of the larger airframes, maybe higher! If the purpose of the group build is to have fun, with as many members as possible, while also helping people new to bigger RC planes to make the jump successfully.....then IMHO the 20cc class of airframes are perfect for the mission.
There are a handful of vendors/manufacturers building ARF's in the 20cc profile class and we can discuss them here, I don't have a problem with that. The reason I chose the RedwingRC for my build was that they have thirteen models to choose from, their prices are very competitive, and we've seen people here at the site that have had good experiences with them. You can just as easily choose some other 20cc model from some other manufacturer and join us in the group build thread......provided we don't turn it into a pissing match between manufacturers.....that would violate our "go along to get along" vibe that we enjoy here. Want to build an Aeroworks Pro 260? go for it, let us know how it works out for you? Aerobeez? have fun, share how it's going with us. We're here to have fun with RC planes and to help others to do the same.
A quick side note............you're welcome to do a kit build and still participate here. building from kits is AWESOME so if that's your preference please feel free to post your progress as we post ours. We also love non-powered airframes so if you decide to make a slope-soarer out of your 20cc profile plane, let us know how that works for you!!
Having said all of that let's look at what we'll need to assemble our 20cc profile ARF assuming we're going the gas fuel route. Here it is in list form;
- Airframe
- Hardware (control horns, pushrods, main wheels, tail wheel, etc. usually included with the kit/ARF, sometimes not)
- Engine
- Fuel lines and fuel tank
- Fuel filler plug or fitting and a filter somewhere in the line to the engine
- Fuel vent line plug (for when transporting in a car to avoid drips/fumes)
- Propeller (+ many spares)
- Ignition battery
- ignition on/off switch or optical kill switch (controlled from transmitter)
- Radio system (transmitter, receiver)
- Servos (Servo torque needs to be adequate for airframe, see manufacturers' instructions for guidance)
- Battery for onboard receiver and servos
- on/off switch for onboard battery
- Servo wire extensions and servo plug keepers
- Servo arms (for a 20cc airframe you can use the heavy duty plastic arms like what DuBro sells but probably shouldn't use the plastic arms that come with the servos)
- Misc. small zip ties, doodads, and watchamacallits that you don't realize you need until you need them but with this build the small stuff will be very few.
- the engine (you're using a brushless motor to spin the prop)
- fuel tank (your flight battery holds your "fuel")
- fuel lines (you're using wires)
- ignition battery
- ignition on/off switch
- receiver battery (your one big battery for the brushless motor will also power your receiver)
- on/off switch for receiver battery
With all of that in mind, you'll need to make some decisions as to what parts you're going to go with. In some cases the shop selling the ARF/kit will also have the other components, if you're lucky they'll be bundled together as a combo and you'll probably save a few bucks by going that route. As you continue to build and fly though you'll develop preferences as to what brands you like and then the combos might suit your tastes.
I would normally go the route that I think most of you that are new will go so that I can show the steps and you can just follow along but I know we've got a few people waiting to begin posting photos and I know they're using gas engines so I'm going to build mine as an electric and we'll let our other members here post the details for a gas fuel build.
I hope this post answered a few questions or showed how we're going to do this build in greater detail than you might have seen before.
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ASK QUESTIONS.....THIS BUILD IS THE 20CC PROFILE ASK-ANYTHING ZONE....WE'LL ANSWER EVERYTHING WITH A SMILE.
Moving right along, I've got to see if I've got a tracking number yet...............
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flycanic
70cc twin V2
@pawnshopmike.I have used all three sizes on the many Profiles I have flown. The Small size is perfect for profiles in the 40 to 60 glow size,4 to 6 lb. TTP15. The TTP 19 is great for profile's in the 60 to 120, glow, or 20cc gas profiles, and the TTP 17 works with Profiles that weigh 9 to 15 lb. or 30cc up to the 50cc gas profiles. on these 20cc profiles I use the TTP 19. I have flexed this gear a few times to where the wheels have punched holes in the bottom of the wings and spring right back LOL!! Any aluminum gear whether light gage Or thicker will not flex Aluminum gear will just bend and twist out of shape, and will break eventually The thicker aluminum gear is hard to straighten and has to be removed to do so FWIW The Tetherlite gear will take a licking and keep on ticking
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flycanic
70cc twin V2
For those building this size profile with the Electric motors putting the front fuse doublers will not be required, The 20cc gas engine Vibration will take it's revenge on the Airframe over time. We fly off a very rough field, and if I ever build one for an electric motor, I would do the same to the fuse as I do for the gasser's. Out of all the crashes I have witnessed in person and done myself, and on the forums, the fuselage is the main point of carnage. Seems like the Wings always survive with minimal damage. I know that for a fact I have a set of winds for one of the Yaks. LOL! I called Decal Dennis a while back and mentioned to him I had a wing set for a Yak he could have. He informed me he had a spare set too LOL!!!