3D H9 1/3 Cap 232 - Blast from the past!!!
- Thread starter skunkwurk
- Start date
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Depends, it has to be really good and proven first, then I'll think about offering a kit. I'm getting excited about my layout right now, so we'll see.
skunkwurk
50cc
It looks great, and I'm excited about it being a CAP. Looking forward to seeing how it ends up, and your assessment of how it flys. The ARF I'm assembling now is my 4th CAP, I love them. I'm a Sukhoi fan too, I've had 2. I've owed an Extra260 and Edge540, but I feel the CAP just has a presence on the runway and in the air. it's very distinctive.
skunkwurk
50cc
ok boys,
Remember, I don't solder everyday, go easy on me. Here goes...
BAM!!! DA-120 Ignition connector soldered to IBEC= Done... I feel pretty good I'll get decent current flow and it should not come apart...
This may seem trivial, but I assure you, there are folks out there that open the box from DA for the motor and wonder, what do I do?
I hope this helps.
sc
Remember, I don't solder everyday, go easy on me. Here goes...
BAM!!! DA-120 Ignition connector soldered to IBEC= Done... I feel pretty good I'll get decent current flow and it should not come apart...
This may seem trivial, but I assure you, there are folks out there that open the box from DA for the motor and wonder, what do I do?
I hope this helps.sc
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skunkwurk
50cc
Question(s) for you guys.
I've gone ahead and attempted to make a wood motor spacer as a possible alternative to the aluminum stand-offs. This is the 3rd one I had to make, pics included, the first I basically ruined trying to emulate the exact shape of the motor back-plate, the second I did not like. I was testing the use of oak, I think I prefer plywood. It seems much much stronger and cleaner. Anyway, with the mid-level tools I have it becomes difficult to create the half moon shapes in 2-1/16" of ply, the precision is simply not there with my grade of tools. So I think I gave that up. I may round off the corners but I'll keep it conservative, I don't want to ruin a 3rd spacer.
The question I have is the following. Is it useful or would you drill a hole in the two sides and bottom of the mount in order to provide a release for hot air for the motor? It would also help me save weight, the mount came in at 8.06oz, as it sits in the pic. Ouch, the standoff's weigh 2.57oz. I do need additional weight but I don't think I need 5.49 oz of weight so far up front in the model, seems like a lot. I'll test CG before I drill or modify the mount, but I figured I'd share what I'm thinking.
If you agree with the idea, and don't think it will compromise the strength of the mount, and agree on the merit of heat dissipation, I may decide on 1, 2 or 3 holes. I'll base the choice on weight removed by each plug, progressively.
I've included a picture of attempt two, which I am using to play around with, you can see an example of a vent hole drilled in one of the sides. I'm thinking each plug may weigh an oz or less. As a reference point, the center plug weighs 2.36 oz alone. That plug is much more material and that does not include any material with is cut and ground to dust in the process of drilling the plug out. I'm thinking two side vents and a bottom vent would yield possibly ~1-2 oz. With that said, I would have a net of +3oz with the new mount, more or less to help balance the plane. Please take a look and let me know what you think.
thanks in advance.
I've gone ahead and attempted to make a wood motor spacer as a possible alternative to the aluminum stand-offs. This is the 3rd one I had to make, pics included, the first I basically ruined trying to emulate the exact shape of the motor back-plate, the second I did not like. I was testing the use of oak, I think I prefer plywood. It seems much much stronger and cleaner. Anyway, with the mid-level tools I have it becomes difficult to create the half moon shapes in 2-1/16" of ply, the precision is simply not there with my grade of tools. So I think I gave that up. I may round off the corners but I'll keep it conservative, I don't want to ruin a 3rd spacer.
The question I have is the following. Is it useful or would you drill a hole in the two sides and bottom of the mount in order to provide a release for hot air for the motor? It would also help me save weight, the mount came in at 8.06oz, as it sits in the pic. Ouch, the standoff's weigh 2.57oz. I do need additional weight but I don't think I need 5.49 oz of weight so far up front in the model, seems like a lot. I'll test CG before I drill or modify the mount, but I figured I'd share what I'm thinking.
If you agree with the idea, and don't think it will compromise the strength of the mount, and agree on the merit of heat dissipation, I may decide on 1, 2 or 3 holes. I'll base the choice on weight removed by each plug, progressively.
I've included a picture of attempt two, which I am using to play around with, you can see an example of a vent hole drilled in one of the sides. I'm thinking each plug may weigh an oz or less. As a reference point, the center plug weighs 2.36 oz alone. That plug is much more material and that does not include any material with is cut and ground to dust in the process of drilling the plug out. I'm thinking two side vents and a bottom vent would yield possibly ~1-2 oz. With that said, I would have a net of +3oz with the new mount, more or less to help balance the plane. Please take a look and let me know what you think.
thanks in advance.
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skunkwurk
50cc
That's an excellent idea, I'm going to stop by the hardware store on the way home and look around. Thank you. What do you think about the vent holes?
skunkwurk
50cc
I was told the twins generate a lot of heat near the rear bearing, the baffling would help cool the cylinders, definitely. I was just thinking of trapped hot air in the back of the motor.
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