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IMAC JTEC 2.7m Extra 300CS

Alky6

150cc
Elevators:
To ensure the elevators get cut correctly (and perpendicular to the centerline of the fuse) I used a 4' straight edge centered and measured to a point at the centerline of of F1. During the process, I realized that the 6-32 screws to hold on the stabs were a wee bit too small and there is slop in the mounting. Didn't notice before when I set the incidence as I had the stab tube tight in the sockets. Will have to get that done before I cut out the elevators, but I now have a nice known perpendicular line to reference off of.

Rudder:
Used a piece of alluminum bar stock to use as a template for the hinge holes. Added extra hinges at the bottom of the rudder because I am only going to use one servo (push-pull) which I gather will add a bit more hinge loading in this area. Also started beveling the surfaces. One interesting point for those that have never done it on a tapered surface, you can't simply draw a line at equal depths along the LE and TE pieces. Using the largest width of the rudder I used similar triangles to determine the depth so I have a line to work to when shaping and sanding the LE and TE.

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Alky6

150cc
Going to try and get caught up on my progress. My dad always says that progress is made steady by jerks. Not sure how to take that... LOL.
Elevators:
Reset incidence on the elevators and got them cut out and LE and TE hinge line balsa glued on. Used a 1/4" thick aluminum bar and made a robart hinge drill jig on the mill. Also got the servo boxes glued in.

Turtle Deck:
Turtle deck was a bit narrower at base versus top of fuse. So I glued a temporary 1/8"x3/4" balsa on the bottom edge to hold flush with edge of fuse while gluing. Worked really well. Because the turtle deck adds additional torsional rigidity, I jigged the fuse back up to ensure the stab tube and wing tube remained parallel. The fuse is now extremely rigid. Used gorilla glue to attach the turtle deck.

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