Scale Nelitz 1/3 scale Cub build

[dhal22]

Well that approach didn't work. After calling my uncle he had me simply shorten the throw on the shorter cable and the problem went away completely. Both cables TIGHT throughout movement in both directions. I moved the lower cable up a half inch and done, no playing around with various servo arm mounting locations.

 

[Stevendavis]

Nice!

 

[dhal22]

Fingers crossed mr. ackermann doesn't have to provide engineering here.

I've refreshed my memory and learned a lot this weekend.....

 

[TonyHallo]

Tell me which arm did you shorten? Top or bottom? I went back and looked at the Super Cub photos and I had to shorten the bottom horn. The front side is going to the bottom of the aileron, if you zoom in you can see it is moved in one hole on the horn. I do remember the cables remained tight through out the travel range.

 

[dhal22]

Tony, I shortened the bottom. Shorter travel for shorter cable I found out.

Can I get a complete photo of how you did yours? Obviously a bell crank.

 

[dhal22]

A piece of KS brass tube makes a great axle captured between two pieces of plywood.

For the mold, it is already waxed. I use PVA for release film but there are easier products to use. I understand Loctite 700-NC works great, 700-NC . I plan to purchase this product next. Cut a piece of glass cloth and wet it out in the mold with epoxy, dab up any pooling resins with a paper towel. Cut the glass a little larger than needed. Allow to cure and pull the part out. Start over. I have found that one layer of 6 ounce cloth is not sufficient, for the parts on the Cherokee, I used a layer of 4 ounce followed by a layer of 6 ounce. I wet the four ounce out and let a partially cure then put the 6 ounce layer on while the 4 ounce was still tacky.

Tony, I need to use pva release or this loctite first then lay down the fiberglass?

Edit: I can use Pam I believe.

Thanks

 

[dhal22]

More improvements today. Tony got me thinking with the brass tube axle suggestion. My design was leaning due to cable pressure so I made another pulley holder. The little hardware store nylon bolt rig works perfect.

 

[TonyHallo]

Tony, I shortened the bottom. Shorter travel for shorter cable I found out.

Can I get a complete photo of how you did yours? Obviously a bell crank.

The Super Cub has fuel tank covers, I decided to hide the flap and aileron servos under the covers

.

 

[TonyHallo]

Tony, I need to use pva release or this loctite first then lay down the fiberglass?

Edit: I can use Pam I believe.

Thanks

The mold has 10 coats of Partall #2 wax on it. I never tried relying on the wax alone and have always used PVA. When the part comes out of the mold the PVA normally comes with it. I have used Pam for release agent for Ultracal 30, don't believe I would use it for resin though. Put a drop of resin on the mold near the outside and see if it will pop off after it cures, if so than you could use the mold as is.

 

[dhal22]

The mold has 10 coats of Partall #2 wax on it. I never tried relying on the wax alone and have always used PVA. When the part comes out of the mold the PVA normally comes with it. I have used Pam for release agent for Ultracal 30, don't believe I would use it for resin though. Put a drop of resin on the mold near the outside and see if it will pop off after it cures, if so than you could use the mold as is.

Tony, I've used Pam before, just forgot. I double checked or rather quintiple checked before i used it as it's not my mold.

First try was perfect except I think I was too light on the hardener as it's still a little soft. It popped out easily. Second run is hardening much quicker so should be good.

Very nice mold as no sanding needed on first run.