Engine Gurus Unite -> I need HELP!

[bob_nj]

49dimes -->
I looked around for an article or thread on the best way to de carbon the engine but didn't see much.
Anyone have a good link?

Thanks
Bob

 

[49dimes]

The top of the reed carrier shows through the reed but not down the sides. For that side. True it up with sanding on a flat surface.

 

[bob_nj]

Should they hold water?

 

[49dimes]

Just get some solvent like Berrymans at the auto parts store and soak the parts overnight. You can use a sharp knife or the old piston ring to scrape the ring groove in the piston. Avoid scrapping the sides of the piston and cylinder wall. Some discolorations or stains wont hurt a thing.

 

[49dimes]

Yes but that is not the best way to check because you are holding pressure on the reed. Coat the sealing surface of the carrier with a light film of wd40 and gently lay the reed petal over it and then gently lift it off. You should see a ring of film around the entire reed petal. If you do not that is indicative of low spots and additional sanding is required.

 

[stangflyer]

From the sounds of it, you have addressed nearly everything one could possibly check. Except one issue (unless I missed it being mentioned) that is common to most all DLE's from what I have been told and reading.

A friend of mine purchased a brand new 55RA.... For the life of us, we could not get that motor to dial in. EXACTLY the same issues as you. I have two DLE 55's that run great. His however, not so much. Air slipping past the rear case mating surface for the carb and reed block cage. Sanded and "trued" the mating surface, Motor runs like a raped ape. I have also heard and read that sometimes, air slips between the case halves on some DLE motors. I think this may be true of some of the earlier model motors. Probably not so much now.

Don't know if this helps, but can't hurt to check it out since you have done pretty much everything else.

 

[stangflyer]

One other thing.... The reason I suggest this is in your original posting, you said "here lately", which gives me a reason to believe at some point it was running good. If a motor sits too long, occasionally gaskets dry out, split, crack and leak. Perhaps something to consider?

 

[49dimes]

Bob could you please PM me on your results and final findings.

 

[bob_nj]

Don't know if this helps, but can't hurt to check it out since you have done pretty much everything else

I all helps buddy, and thanks.
I was looking back at my notes on a 55RA that flamed out on me in July, and now runs differently than it has been.
I chalked it up to being hot, and the recent installation of a Bowman and left it at that.
Now the lights are coming on.
My original mindset was to ignore the reed block mods.
My engines are fine, and I just don't have the time to do it.
I won't ignore them anymore.
My Winter mantra is now going to be, "Reed Block", "Reed Block"
I will do the 55RA, and an even older standard 55 I have in another plane.
It's just so difficult for me to get time anymore.

Since I'm ranting, I have a 5 hour daily work commute which translates to, "No Life"
I work for this company --> http://www.nasc.com/ps-uas.php as a UAV pilot and tech.
Don't fly so much anymore, but it's plenty busy for sure.
I went to Iraq for awhile, and have spent a lot of time in Arizona, Oklahoma, and Wyoming on assignments.

Anyway, '

Bob could you please PM me on your results and final findings.

Absolutely, I'll post them here too.
I've started truing up the reed block and carrier and was amazed at how not flat/true they are/aren't.

My new parts should be here tomorrow, the new gaskets and reeds.
As a control, I plan to finish truing up the existing block and carrier and install the used reeds and
try to run, just to see what I can see.

Should be interesting, and I can't wait.
That should happen sometime today, 11/14.

Thanks for the help and support.
More to follow.
Film at 11..........................

 

[bob_nj]

49Dimes
I know you like Cheese Burgers, but tell me about the four dollars and ninety cents