Yippee! What the postman brought

[BalsaDust]

On another note. The postman brought me a very thin envelope from a friend. Hmm...., I wonder what this could be? Oh yeah, hee hee...
I am doing my part to comply with the FAA and their silly assed games. Should look good on my 40centers right?

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That’s what mine look like as well and are placed on the bottom of the rudder.

 

[acerc]

WOW, who knew posting the recommended set-up would stir up so much. I am as anal as the next guy but also believe the quality manufacturers post what they feel is needed. With that being said I also believe their test pilots are of the extreme nature which causes recommendations to be extreme as well. So for an everyday flyer such as myself what is recommended is well over the top of what will be needed. But why not do it anyway, nothing lost and plenty to gain. An example was the servos I used, based on recommendations, in the AJ Laser. I went by AJ's specs and would never have known that a coreless digital high torque servo was so unbelievably fast, smooth, and powerful. And it is also good to get out of one's norm and experience something different. Will the AW Ultimate be over powered, probably, but it will not be underpowered. And that is always a good thing.

 

[acerc]

I am also quite sure if I was posting I am putting a 170cc on it instead of a 150cc the responses would not be you don't need that much! LOL!!!

 

[Snoopy1]

Thanks for all the input from all the info above it looks like the standard Heavy duty stuff that I am presently using is the same as the 3 Servo set up. And I have to agree with Stang the push pull in the back is the best but not always achievable because off balance problems but if possible I do the same.
I apologize if a caused a bit of a heated debate that was NOT my intention I was just interested to see how it was done. Have to say found it interesting and I am once again a little wiser.

 

[Snoopy1]

Snoops, don't know about other guys, but I use Hangar 9 or Sullivan HD hardware. Use primarily good quality servo arms like MPI or SWB. Many out there worth looking at. As for setup, pretty basic really. I have done pull/pull on rudders. I really don't like them because you are relying on a cable that can stretch to "PULL" your rudder to one side or the other. With a push/pull, (my preference) with the titanium hard link turnbuckles, you not only are pulling on one side of the control horn, you are also pushing with the same force on the other side of the control horn. Equal pressure minimizes stress and therefor reduces risk of something failing. Also, I have found that a push/pull system is actually stronger and maintains more of the grunt force the servos are exerting. With pull/pull, you are losing a bit of the torque because you lose it through the cable. You would be surprised at just how much force it takes to break a 3mm bolt. There is no doubt in my mind that you will rip your control horns out of your control surface before you will break a 3mm bolt. Ask me how I know this. LOL. When possible, (which I will 99% of the time drill out the control horns to accept a 4 mil bolt) I use 4mm just for the extra safety margin. Its that anal thing.

I don't have any photos at present, but would be happy to get some and post them for you. Remember, your setup is "ONLY" as strong as your weakest link.

Thanks for the reply good information once again.

 

[acerc]

No apologies necessary, I just found it kinda odd that over powering could be considered not needed.

 

[Snoopy1]

No apologies necessary, I just found it kinda odd that over powering could be considered not needed.

I agree with you when it comes to servos required I always put in bigger and better than what is required. They are a big part of the plane and have always found when updating servos in a plane always was very noticeable and improved the plane. As far as I am concerned you can never have to much because the surfaces will only use what they need. My only point of interest was the hardware required to get from the servos into the rudder. Thanks again.

 

[stangflyer]

That’s what mine look like as well and are placed on the bottom of the rudder.

Ok, this is just weird. Besides Dimes, guess I have "ANOTHER" brother from a different mother. All my FAA numbers are also going on the bottom of my rudders. And I ain't even gonna lift my plane up if the "goons" want to verify my compliance. They can dig a hole, "UNDER" my rudder large enough to slid a mirror and magnifying glass under so that they can see the compliance sticker. If they ain't happy with that? Well, I guess they better have a dang powerful telephoto lens to take pictures of it as I do a harrier fly by or a high speed pass with the Behemoth Stang. Hey, come to think of it...I could get some free areal footage.

WOW, who knew posting the recommended set-up would stir up so much. I am as anal as the next guy but also believe the quality manufacturers post what they feel is needed. With that being said I also believe their test pilots are of the extreme nature which causes recommendations to be extreme as well. So for an everyday flyer such as myself what is recommended is well over the top of what will be needed. But why not do it anyway, nothing lost and plenty to gain. An example was the servos I used, based on recommendations, in the AJ Laser. I went by AJ's specs and would never have known that a coreless digital high torque servo was so unbelievably fast, smooth, and powerful. And it is also good to get out of one's norm and experience something different. Will the AW Ultimate be over powered, probably, but it will not be underpowered. And that is always a good thing.

My point exactly. The Jtec Pitts definitely didn't need 403 ounces on "each" surface. But as I said, that plane ain't gonna fall outta the sky due to lack of servo power. In fact, pretty sure if you look at any of my rides, you will note the servo accompaniment is far above what is really needed. The H9 Sukhoi has two 7950's on each elevator half. The rest of the surfaces? Pretty much above the standard. My 330? Yeah, tres 7954's on the ailerons. And 7980x2 on the rudder. Even the Baby Yakster (33%) has 7955's on all surfaces. And the ailerons have two each. (806 ounces) For a 95" plane, that is a teeny weeny bit over the top. LOL. Not to mention all the other planes. Nope, I am a firm believer of not taking any chances. Heck, even the Mustang will have 7950's or like on "ALL" surfaces. Why? Isn't it a little over the top? Umm....Yup. But it's my plane and it's my money and I am not taking any chances. I hope you don't feel I was in opposition of your choice of servos. I say again, to each his own. Do what feels comfortable, what you can afford and what is safe. I can not even begin to count the gents I have seen lose planes because they used the "recommended" servos in a plane. I also think that there are many manufacturers that consider a guy is going to set a plane up the way they design it to be set up. "REALLY"????? Since when do we do that?

I am also quite sure if I was posting I am putting a 170cc on it instead of a 150cc the responses would not be you don't need that much! LOL!!!

So my take on the power? Who ever said that more power is not needed? Maybe so, but I also know that if I hang an engine on the front of a plane that is bigger than needed. Two things are going to happen. One, I am going to have a hell of a good time. And two, "IF" I need that power in an emergency situation, I have it and don't need to worry about it. Sad to say I have seen many guys loose planes because they did "not" have the power needed. There is always that awesome stick on the left. (mode 2) Cool thing is it goes up, it goes down and it can go anywhere in between. Side note: Does the Behemoth Stang really need the 150cc Kolm? I mean....really? (It was designed to fly with a 95cc single, at least that is what the plans call for) Well duh! May not need it to fly it, but then again...why not? "Cool factor machine broken". Needle broke clean off the dial. I really don't think they make a digital "cool factor" meter. Doubt the processor can handle registering that much "COOOLNESS". LOL.

Thanks for the reply good information once again.

You're welcome for my suggestions. But keep in mind, (I already know this, I am sure others do too) You are much smarter than you let on. And to that, what I suggest or offer for advice or recommendations is only my personal beliefs. Others may feel differently. I only have two solid never break rules. NEVER use cheap Hobby King type equipment. And two, NEVER EVER will I ever underpower anything. Servos, engines, batteries, (16,000 mah 7.4's in the Behemoth 330) wiring harnesses, control linkages...(I have never had a control linkage fail from normal usage)

 

[stangflyer]

Just would like to know when connecting 1200 or something like that to a rudder how is done and what is the hardware used it has to be more than a 3mm bolt and nut on one side. A picture would be nice. Thanks.

As promised Snoops, a few photos of my rudder connections. I'll try to keep the photos in order.
First is pull/pull on my 33% Yak. One 403 ounce Hitec 7955. (Sorry if the photos are not horizontally arranged. I really just want you to stand on your head. Lol)



Second is push/pull arrangement on my Pilot Edge. Hitec 7954's.



Next is pull/pull on my Pilot 40% 330. Hitec 7980 x 2.



Next is pull/pull on my Behemoth Yak. Hitec 7990 x 2. Huge rudder, more than enough torque. Better be with the magnetic encoder and 611 ounces each.



Last is a single Hitec 7994 (403 ounce) on the 25 pound Jtec Pitts. I really can't say whether it's enough or not. I dont fly this plane hard. It is strictly for ooo...and ayah and poke holes in the sky. Bipe style.



Oh yeah, almost forgot the H9 Sukhoi. HS7950 x 2, (486 ounces each) push/pull configuration.



As for hardware, all basic HD whether pull/pull or push/pull configuration.

Hope the photos help you out.

 

[acerc]

I will note that even though the manual shows the Dubro extra heavy duty style servo arms, not gonna happen. I have some nice Xtrme aluminum arms on there way.