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IMAC The new Dalton 300 SP / 330

Alky6

150cc
Got some more work done, but before I mention what I did, I need to tell you all a story.



In any event, it has been 1 year since I did his hip replacement, and today, he brought me a gift. He explained to me what his hobby is, and he tells me he has been doing this for decades, and he goes to competitions, where they give out 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place trophies.

Here is a glimpse of the gift he gave me:
Hmmmmm, looks like you have a new potential source for pilots!
 
Cam,

It may just be the way the picture was taken but, it looks like the choke plates are not open equally in the picture.

Where did you get the titanium hardware from?


Hi Mark,

With this 200, you have to not trust the manufacturer. I advise, on any DA, 1st thing to do, is retighten the spark plugs. Do not trust that they have done so.

The next thing, is on this quad, to make sure that they have balanced the throttle bodies. meaning, that both open and close equally. If not, this has to be adjusted. Again, do not trust the manufacturer on this.

The last thing, is that this choke linkage is not provided. Not shown on these pictures, is that I had to actually turn the silver looking lobes, so that it would be in a position that will function. It is up to me, to make sure that i set it up with ball links and a turnbuckle, that assures that both choke leaves open and close fully. Not as big as a problem as the throttle butterflies, those have to be perfectly matched.

The titanium bolts come from Pro-Bolt USA:

https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium.html



I believe they are 1/2 the weight of stainless steel. I would not use these as prop bolts, but OK to use as the mounting bolts.
 
Gotcha the picture makes the holes look bigger . Are you using two temp sensors and are you placing them on the back cylinders


Hi @Rusty 73 ,

I am using 4 temp sensors, one for each cylinder.

This picture is to demonstrate the ignition cables. If i were to place the front cylinder cable thru the rear hole, that is on the MB side, then It would be under tension. I do not like that, so I made two small holes on the FW to accommodate this....
IMG_1623.JPG



For the forward cylinders, this allows the cable to have plenty of breathing room, it will not be under a stretch.
IMG_1624.JPG


rear has plenty of slack...
IMG_1625.JPG


IMG_1626.JPG




This is how I place the temp sensors. Loop them over the highest most inter-fin area, so that it is as close as possible to the spark....
IMG_1628.JPG




Being that the motor has a baffle plate, the hottest area would be not in the back, but on the bottom of the cylinder, so this is where the sensor is placed.

IMG_1629.JPG




Here is the end result. one sensor per cylinder. We will see how this baffling set up works. This will be the 1st time I baffle a quad without a shroud. SO will be interesting to see what the temps are like...
IMG_1639.JPG
 
I forgot to mention, by passing the fuel lines thru the front end of the firewall, and then it swings down to the carbs, it avoids the fuel lines from running next to the headers, as this can cause vapor lock. I will, in addition to this, wrap the fuel lines in JEGS thermal hoses.
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Like how you run the plugs to each cylinder with the red loom cable protector . Looks good

Four Temp wires wow I guess you know how to set the Jeti for this situation

Yes keeping the fuel lines away from the header heat is critical to prevent vapour lock .
I guess the headers can get very hot ( 300-400F)

Will the wind over top of the cylinders create a caffing with the temperature wire loops againist the fins ?

So the baffles for the cylinders would run horizontally in the cowl splitting the cylinders !

I really have enjoyed all the information you have shares during your build ,very informative .Thanks Cam
 
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