Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
@orthobird thank you for doing that I will definitely going use that in my next wing. Looking at it I believe it takes a little practice to get it right, worth doing. Thanks again for doing that.
IMAC The new Dalton 300 SP / 330
- Thread starter orthobird
- Start date
Got another idea for removing the foam, for the servo boxes. In the past, I was using a dremel with a router cutting bit. And it made a nice smooth edges, but, it created a great deal of foam dust.
This technique is way cleaner.
Did a test run on a block of foam. Tomorrow, I will do this on the stabs.
Using a Weller soldering iron. Removed the tip, and obtained a 12 gauge solid copper wire, they sell these at Lowe's or Home depot in the electrical area. The Dalton kits come with a servo cutout jig.
after cutting it out, by melting it...
here is with servo box installed.
I will show this again, in detail, when I do it on the stabs.
This technique is way cleaner.
Did a test run on a block of foam. Tomorrow, I will do this on the stabs.
Using a Weller soldering iron. Removed the tip, and obtained a 12 gauge solid copper wire, they sell these at Lowe's or Home depot in the electrical area. The Dalton kits come with a servo cutout jig.
after cutting it out, by melting it...
here is with servo box installed.
I will show this again, in detail, when I do it on the stabs.
Anytime. Using these tools, make things much easier, I am still learning. This soldering iron trick has made it the best ever, for me. It is also safer both in that, risk of penetrating into balsa sheeting is gone, and no inhalation of foam particles.
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
I agree with you on all points. Have Weller iron but there are to sizes which one are you using the watt size. Will be getting a length of 12 gauge wire to play with. When get all this will do some playing will let you know how it goes, thanks again. Never thought I would be learning this much again.
My pleasure my friend.
The one I Used is the 100/140 Watt version, I obtained it from Lowes:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_97541-273-8200PKS_1z0wcif__?productId=3135969&pl=1
I look forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
@orthobird great now I know why I was having problems cutting foam the the Weller soldering gun. The one I have is 325 watt. It started out good but after adout 6 inches into the foam all hell broke loos and ended with a big hole, mess. Now I know why. Thanks will getting a new Weller gun soon and some 12 gauge wire.
Demonstration of the beveling of the stabs. Also, to illustrate the fashion in which the rudder and stabs will be hinged.
Mark the position of the hinges on the LE and TE of the hinge. there are two at tips and root, that are 1" apart. The remaining will be 3 inches apart. total of 7 hinge points for each elevator.
these are Robart 322 hinge points, which means, they are unassembled hinge points. They are 3/16" diameter hinge points, which are the largest they sell.
on the LE and TE, using a ruler, I use two points, one near root and other near the tip, that the center width is marked. then Using a ruler, the hinge line is drawn with a fine tip sharpie. Then, using the Robart Hinge Point Jig, the holes are drilled out.
Image of the jig in position, prior to drilling. This jig comes with two different diameter drill guides. I will use the small one first, then I will use the larger one last. More work, but helps to assure (for me), that the 1st hole is drilled at the cross mark.
the stab and elevator, are now put together with the hinges in, to assure that they are both inline, meaning, not off center.
to demonstrate the gap between counterbalance and the tip of the stab. This is 4 mm. Will be less once covered.
now, time to bevel. I am removing more off the elevator, and slightly less off the stab. Additionally, you remove more closer to the root, and less closer to the tip.
Meaning, measuring from the hinge gap up, 3/8" at the root and 1/4" at the tip.
stab bevel done.
both sides of the hinge are done. this is test fitting using the traditional Robart hinge points, only 2 of the them, one at the root and one at the tip.
deflection up and down is more than adequate.
Here is the fun step. Using the K&S piano wire, the hinge points are carefully placed into the holes on one side.
They are then pushed in all the way, til the wire bottoms out onto the edge of the balsa.
other side is on now.
the LE of the counterbalance is in line with the LE of the stab.
You can see, the wire acts to seal the gap as well. Cannot see day light thru the gap.
Now, time to do the other side.
Mark the position of the hinges on the LE and TE of the hinge. there are two at tips and root, that are 1" apart. The remaining will be 3 inches apart. total of 7 hinge points for each elevator.
these are Robart 322 hinge points, which means, they are unassembled hinge points. They are 3/16" diameter hinge points, which are the largest they sell.
on the LE and TE, using a ruler, I use two points, one near root and other near the tip, that the center width is marked. then Using a ruler, the hinge line is drawn with a fine tip sharpie. Then, using the Robart Hinge Point Jig, the holes are drilled out.
Image of the jig in position, prior to drilling. This jig comes with two different diameter drill guides. I will use the small one first, then I will use the larger one last. More work, but helps to assure (for me), that the 1st hole is drilled at the cross mark.
the stab and elevator, are now put together with the hinges in, to assure that they are both inline, meaning, not off center.
to demonstrate the gap between counterbalance and the tip of the stab. This is 4 mm. Will be less once covered.
now, time to bevel. I am removing more off the elevator, and slightly less off the stab. Additionally, you remove more closer to the root, and less closer to the tip.
Meaning, measuring from the hinge gap up, 3/8" at the root and 1/4" at the tip.
stab bevel done.
both sides of the hinge are done. this is test fitting using the traditional Robart hinge points, only 2 of the them, one at the root and one at the tip.
deflection up and down is more than adequate.
Here is the fun step. Using the K&S piano wire, the hinge points are carefully placed into the holes on one side.
They are then pushed in all the way, til the wire bottoms out onto the edge of the balsa.
other side is on now.
the LE of the counterbalance is in line with the LE of the stab.
You can see, the wire acts to seal the gap as well. Cannot see day light thru the gap.
Now, time to do the other side.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Hmmm.....not sure I like it. It's gonna be kind of hard to see in the air. Come to think of it...it's kind of hard to see.....period. LOL