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74" Edge 540

Thanks for the help guys, think I have it working correctly. One more quick question, when playing with the settings in the castle quick link, should I leave all the setting to default except the fixed endpoints? Is there a common setting everyone is using? Thanks.


***AS PER CASTLE LINK INSTRUCTIONS***


Fixed-Endpoints
Fixed-Endpoints will set zero-throttle and full-throttle points to fixed values so that the ESC does not have to learn from your transmitter. If you are using this mode, you will most likely want to change the EPA settings on your transmitter to allow full throttle resolution with the throttle stick. *To do this, turn on your TX and set normal mode in the transmitter for a linear throttle curve (0,25,50,75,100). Bring your high side and low side endpoints on your throttle channel down to 25%, plug in the battery pack with the throttle stick at full (it won't start up), then bring your high endpoint back out towards (and sometimes past) 100% until you hear a single tone. Next, bring your throttle stick down to the bottom position and bring the endpoint out from 25% out towards (and possibly past) 100% until you hear the ESC arm. Unplug the battery pack, wait a few seconds, then plug back in and verify that the throttle is working properly.
 

3dbandit

100cc
Thanks for the help guys, think I have it working correctly. One more quick question, when playing with the settings in the castle quick link, should I leave all the setting to default except the fixed endpoints? Is there a common setting everyone is using? Thanks.

This would be a good starting point:

Throttle:Vehicle Type Airplane Throttle Type Fixed-Endpoints Throttle Response 10

Brake Brake Strength 0%, Disabled (Default)

Cutoffs Cutoff Voltage Auto Li-Po (Default) Auto-Lipo Volts/Cell 3.2 Volts/Cell (Default) Voltage Cutoff Type Soft Cutoff (Default) Current Limiting Normal (70A) (Default) Current Cutoff Type Soft Cutoff (Default)

Motor Motor Start Power Medium (59) (Default) Motor Timing Normal (5) (Default)
Direction Forward (Default) PWM Rate 12 Khz (Default)

Other: Power-On Beep Enabled (Default) Link Live Enable Disabled (Default) BEC Voltage 5.0V (Default)
Logging Data Log Enabled 255 Sample Frequency Disabled
 
Thanks !!!

This would be a good starting point:

Throttle:Vehicle Type Airplane Throttle Type Fixed-Endpoints Throttle Response 10

Brake Brake Strength 0%, Disabled (Default)

Cutoffs Cutoff Voltage Auto Li-Po (Default) Auto-Lipo Volts/Cell 3.2 Volts/Cell (Default) Voltage Cutoff Type Soft Cutoff (Default) Current Limiting Normal (70A) (Default) Current Cutoff Type Soft Cutoff (Default)

Motor Motor Start Power Medium (59) (Default) Motor Timing Normal (5) (Default)
Direction Forward (Default) PWM Rate 12 Khz (Default)

Other: Power-On Beep Enabled (Default) Link Live Enable Disabled (Default) BEC Voltage 5.0V (Default)
Logging Data Log Enabled 255 Sample Frequency Disabled
 
Picked up another silver one from the BF sale. Probably going into the storage room for the winter as I don't really have any engine for it at the moment. I have some 5565MHs for servos. I could do it up electric with my A60-6XS, but I have read a lot of people having issue balancing these planes on 6s electric setups and I am robbing the rest of those electric components for a 550 heli. Maybe some new engine product will come along that I just have to try. Ran out of BF money to order another VVRC twin to just sit around for the winter.
 
I got all excited about starting my build after being out of town for a week. But I discovered that I don't have enough epoxy to even squeeze it out of the bottle and my thin CA bottle is so crapped up that I can't use the nozzle. Tower Hobby should come to my rescue by next weekend. So far my PVC build stand is working out pretty good though. :)

Too cold to build in the garage so I'll see how long I can get away with building in the living room.

Marc

Build stand.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Can you use Push-Pull Rudder?

Hey guys. I'm working on installing the tail surface control horns on my 74" Edge. The manual (3DHS says to use the 72" Extra 300SC manual) states to use tail mounted Push-Pull rudder for the DLE30 gas engine to achieve proper CG.

The issue is that the only two servo mounting cutouts at the tail of the plane (that I can find) are directly across from each other and I think the two servos will hit each other and not allow me to mount them properly. Also, there doesn't seem to be a pushrod long enough if I use push-pull on the rudder.

So should I be using pull-pull on this plane even with the DLE-30? And will I be able to achieve a neutral CG with pull-pull without adding tail weight?

Also, is this double arm that came with my HS-5565MH servo long enough to get full rudder throw? I see photos online of guys using those pretty anodized aluminum arms that look longer (and prettier).

Thanks,
Marc

tail servo mount.jpg

double arm.jpg
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
Mark,
I built my edge (now sold) electric, but I think the servo can both fit ok.
Maybe [MENTION=271]Enterprise[/MENTION] can confirm, as his is gas.

Also, lmk if you end needing a longer rudder arm, I probably have a spare long one.
You'll want a 1.5" (center to outer hole) arm
 
Yes, the rudder bay is different from the elevator because the fuse is setup for dual elevator servos.

Thanks for the replies. I assume both of the servos bays I see are for a dual elevator setup. I don't see a third servo bay at the tail. So the only rudder configuration for this airframe is pull-pull?

Marc
 
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