Welcome To GiantScaleNews.com

GSN is the BEST in an RC online community. Less corporate BS and more down home fun. Better conversations with REAL RC'ers. Don't settle for the biggest when you can have the best!
  1. If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

Scale 20cc Edge 540 Profile “The Glitter”

Discussion in 'Giant / Scale Scratch and Kit Build Threads' started by BalsaDust, May 28, 2019.

   
  1. BalsaDust

    BalsaDust Moderator

    The ProBro guy that built the first one just ended up cutting the rudder post. He went ahead and hinged the elevator to the stab and put it all in as one assembly. Then just glued the removed piece back to the rudder post and put a small piece of covering over it to hide the cut line. I reckon if you didn't want to cut the ruddr post and where willing to try to cover the fuse and stab portions all as one then you could build the entire fuse without gluing the tube in, then with tube removed go ahead and glue it the elevator and stab, followed by then gluing the tube in but to me its a pain in the butt to cover something like that and there will be very little if any strength lost in cutting the rudder post.
     
    Snoopy1 likes this.
  2. Snoopy1

    Snoopy1 640cc Uber Pimp

    5,650
    7,945
    113
    Canada
    Great thanks again for the prompt answer. Yes you make sense just wanted to make sure I was not missing something obvious.
     
  3. BalsaDust

    BalsaDust Moderator

    Also to note seeing the pic of the ply nose sides. The guy that built the first one said his came out tail heavy. If I where you I would build the whole thing and install engine, all electronics, fuel tank, landing gear and such before covering to check the CG. If it looks like it will be way tail heavy and you can't move anything forward then the open pocket there under the engine rails is the perfect place to glue in a little weight that will be hidden once covered.
     
    Snoopy1 likes this.
  4. BalsaDust

    BalsaDust Moderator

    Another thing you could do and I don't think it will hurt performance much at all is to frame up the elevator and move the outer rail in 1" on each side which would make its span 2" less. This from some rough meassurements in CAD might give you enough room to slide the elevator in at an angle to get the counterbalance through and rotate it back to proper orientation. Could always try it first but cutting a scrap piece of cardboard and seeing if it will fit. (Does that all make sense??)
     
    Snoopy1 likes this.
  5. Snoopy1

    Snoopy1 640cc Uber Pimp

    5,650
    7,945
    113
    Canada
    Thanks that is good info to have while building the plane. One thing in my favour is that the OS engine is a little heavier than a DLE.
     
  6. Snoopy1

    Snoopy1 640cc Uber Pimp

    5,650
    7,945
    113
    Canada
    Yes that makes sense, I will look at that. It is just a matter on how to get the elevator and stabilizer to fit. Let me give it some thought.
     
  7. Snoopy1

    Snoopy1 640cc Uber Pimp

    5,650
    7,945
    113
    Canada
    @BalsaDust would you by any chance know how much weight the person added to the plane to make it balance. It would be helpful to know. I am still at a stage that I can make some changes to the fuselage to help the balance. One thing I am thinking of doing is moving the rudder servo as far forward as possible and see if a pull pull System can be done.
     
  8. BalsaDust

    BalsaDust Moderator

    He did not end up adding any weight. Honestly I question if the CG actually was right on his and he just wasn't expecting the plane to be as loose as it was. I would say for sure move rudder and elevator servos forward some to help. For me and I would be going with carbon fiber tubes as pushrods I would say you could get away with having up to a 12" long pushrod between servo and control surface. Pull pull setups have been tried before on profiles and its not worth the effort from what I have been told.
    Basically just don't overthink it. I have not built the 20cc version myself but I have built the 80" gas version, 56" glow version, 48" electric, and 44" electric and they have all been built off of the same planes that where just printed at the proper percentage to get the size I wanted and they all have flown amazing and all balanced at the same spot. To be honest I never found the exact CG on them as what we end up doing if just picking up the plane between our finger tips right where the front of the canopy section meets the nose. if it hangs fairly level them then just fly it and adjust battery location afterwards to get it where you like it best.
     
    Snoopy1 likes this.
  9. Snoopy1

    Snoopy1 640cc Uber Pimp

    5,650
    7,945
    113
    Canada
    G
    Thanks, great to know will build it, will play with it once it is built and then cover it.
     
  10. BalsaDust

    BalsaDust Moderator

    Hopefully the link post here since its from another forum site but if you scroll through the first three pages you can see Triflyer3D's build of one of his designs. I got a lot of the same build style from this thread and at one time having one of those planes other than I'm using a wing tube instead of the wing joiner spar.

    https://www.theprofilebrotherhood.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=25209
     
    Snoopy1 likes this.
Loading...

Share This Page