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Cold Weather Flying Tips

Steve_B

70cc twin V2
I find fingerless gloves are good for all but the most extreme cold, and they also keep your fingers warm in-between flights and when installing batteries, setting up the engine etc. The type of gloves with half fingers are best, they only leave the end of the finger uncovered.
 
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Well it's finally noon here and we're up to a balmy 11 degrees. I'm beginning to think the best way to stay warm while flying is to use the sim !
 

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
First time flying off snow after getting back in the hobby this past year. Having a blast. I invested in a Tx glove from Reacher10 at RCG- http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1143460&highlight=reacher10
Not the cheapest out there but he's really nice, will customize to your liking. The bag is warm and has plenty of room. The cuffs are big enough to hand launch and get back in on the sticks (got a bit hairy with an EDF!). It did and still is taking a little getting used to but it's definitely the way to go blow 40s. Condensation is going to happen, just have to wipe it off. I also fitted a couple planes with skis and it is fun flying off the snow. Batts stay in an ammo case in the car to stay warm. Warm boots, hat, sunglasses on the sunny days for the glare off the snow. Tip the skis up about 20-30 degrees or so. For tail skis I used plastic spoons zip tied on to the tail skid or tail wheel (which I heated and molded right around the wheel itself).:flyer:

image.jpg
winter flying Jan 13 1.jpgWinter fleet Jan 13 4.JPGWinter flying Jan 13 2.JPG
 
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Ohio AV8TOR

Just Do It
Nice setups DT. When I was stationed in Maine I flew a Little Stick for my winter plane. Seeing your pictures brought back some memories.
 

econpatric

70cc twin V2
First time flying off snow after getting back in the hobby this past year. Having a blast. I invested in a Tx glove from Reacher10 at RCG- http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1143460&highlight=reacher10
Not the cheapest out there but he's really nice, will customize to your liking. The bag is warm and has plenty of room. The cuffs are big enough to hand launch and get back in on the sticks (got a bit hairy with an EDF!). It did and still is taking a little getting used to but it's definitely the way to go blow 40s. Condensation is going to happen, just have to wipe it off. I also fitted a couple planes with skis and it is fun flying off the snow. Batts stay in an ammo case in the car to stay warm. Warm boots, hat, sunglasses on the sunny days for the glare off the snow. Tip the skis up about 20-30 degrees or so. For tail skis I used plastic spoons zip tied on to the tail skid or tail wheel (which I heated and molded right around the wheel itself).:flyer:

I am curious what brand & size your skis are, as well as where you got them? Are they a Dubro product? Great idea for a tail skid! I also bought a TransMitt for my Dad and I for Christmas. Reacher10 is the man. Great guy to work with!
 
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skibum44

70cc twin V2
So I thought I would post some tips I have picked up in two years flying electric in the Alaskan cold.
The "transmit" is super nice... although unless below -5F, I use gloves with the thumb and index fingers cut off. I work outside all winter long so my hands are acclimated to the cold. I also over dress for the cold, since when flying you are pretty inactive.
It is important to keep batteries warm until ready to fly... I keep them inside a warm truck and others use other forms of heating. If kept warm... batteries will keep temperature and unless real cold will get warm and flight time will not be sacrificed. Also, let batteries cool and if cold warm up before charging.
Cold servos draw more power in the cold... Make sure you have adequate power to your flight system. On my 500 pro running a Ice 75 with a 5 amp BEC the mini servos worked great all summer long, but as soon as temp got below 35F I had a brown out. I then installed a external CC 10amp BEC and haven't had a issue since. So unless 4 micro (65mg or equivalent) or less... I use a external BEC. Also, good pre checks are a must as I have burned up a few smaller servos when I haven't had a issue with them in the summer.
Skis are nice but not a must if you clear flying your flying area and do add weight that may not be beneficial to 3D. I use dubro skis but on my 48 and smaller airframes I cut them down removing 35 grams from the set. I change the system that keeps rotation put as the stock dubro system is garbage. I do remove all wheel pants so I don't break them.
I also don't push my airframes as hard as I do when warm temperatures are here. Although, I haven't had any issues with the two big 3D suppliers (Extreme Flight and 3DHS), I do this because materials gets brittle in the cold.
 

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
So I thought I would post some tips I have picked up in two years flying electric in the Alaskan cold.
The "transmit" is super nice... although unless below -5F, I use gloves with the thumb and index fingers cut off. I work outside all winter long so my hands are acclimated to the cold. I also over dress for the cold, since when flying you are pretty inactive.
It is important to keep batteries warm until ready to fly... I keep them inside a warm truck and others use other forms of heating. If kept warm... batteries will keep temperature and unless real cold will get warm and flight time will not be sacrificed. Also, let batteries cool and if cold warm up before charging.
Cold servos draw more power in the cold... Make sure you have adequate power to your flight system. On my 500 pro running a Ice 75 with a 5 amp BEC the mini servos worked great all summer long, but as soon as temp got below 35F I had a brown out. I then installed a external CC 10amp BEC and haven't had a issue since. So unless 4 micro (65mg or equivalent) or less... I use a external BEC. Also, good pre checks are a must as I have burned up a few smaller servos when I haven't had a issue with them in the summer.
Skis are nice but not a must if you clear flying your flying area and do add weight that may not be beneficial to 3D. I use dubro skis but on my 48 and smaller airframes I cut them down removing 35 grams from the set. I change the system that keeps rotation put as the stock dubro system is garbage. I do remove all wheel pants so I don't break them.
I also don't push my airframes as hard as I do when warm temperatures are here. Although, I haven't had any issues with the two big 3D suppliers (Extreme Flight and 3DHS), I do this because materials gets brittle in the cold.

I used DuBro 60 size on my 48" Edge and park flyers on my Tech Ine Yak foamie. I modded the anti rotation on the park flyers but adding a cf "plate" to extend the stop. The 60 size seemed much better but as you said heavy. My performance almost seemed better. I think it was the forward shift in CG. I could quite make out your "downsizing" of the 60s in the pics. Do you just cut them down the sides like a tapered snow ski? Leaving the shovel stock? The winter fleet looks nice. I guess you have a bit more winter than we do! We are stuck in mid winter mud season here (50degrees with surface snow melting and fog). Skis, wheels, skis ?
 

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
I am curious what brand & size your skis are, as well as where you got them? Are they a Dubro product? Great idea for a tail skid! I also bought a TransMitt for my Dad and I for Christmas. Reacher10 is the man. Great guy to work with!
Yes Dubros. 60 size for 48" edge, park flyer for foam Yak. Park flyers mod with wheel collars inside the plastic and cf "plates" to extend stops to keep from rotating. 60s are fine but a little heavy. May shave them down as mentioned above. +1 on Reacher10. Very easy to deal with w prompt shipping. Great quality. Cannot take credit for spoon idea. Got it from RCG. I will take a bow for the melting and molding idea on the Edge!
 

skibum44

70cc twin V2
I used DuBro 60 size on my 48" Edge and park flyers on my Tech Ine Yak foamie. I modded the anti rotation on the park flyers but adding a cf "plate" to extend the stop. The 60 size seemed much better but as you said heavy. My performance almost seemed better. I think it was the forward shift in CG. I could quite make out your "downsizing" of the 60s in the pics. Do you just cut them down the sides like a tapered snow ski? Leaving the shovel stock? The winter fleet looks nice. I guess you have a bit more winter than we do! We are stuck in mid winter mud season here (50degrees with surface snow melting and fog). Skis, wheels, skis ?

I cut off the round edge on the sides with aviation snips leaving the tip in place which I then used a file to form so it didn't look funky. I used pull pull cable and clamps with a spring up front found at the LHS... this keeps skis in place and many, many flights later stay put. I may put the un-modded dubro skis on the 60" edge, but may be a little small for the 71" slick. I usually leave the tailwheel put and works great without problems... On my MUS I made a tail ski out of "Plastruct" which comes in sheets of different thicknesses also found at the LHS.
 
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