Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
You are 100% correct. Every time I get to the field I am standing there with no camera, I forget the dam thing every time. Will try to remember for the next time.Pictures?
Cool The I'm going out flying thread 2017
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Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
Have a question. Out at the field yesterday with my flying buddy who has a Pilot yak with a Dle55 in it with a R3 pipe. After a flight he wanted to check something inside the fuselage removed hatch and I has helping him and touched the tune pipe well all I can say is that pipe is dam hot I burnt my self. The question is do any of you have any problems with your radio gear in plane with an open pipe in the fuselage. does the heigh temperature form the pipe not effect the radio equipment and what precautions do you take if any. Thanks
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
I try and keep the radio gear and wiring as far away as I can. I think if you have good airflow through the fuselage in flight it's not an issue. However they can build heat during taxi back and radiate quite a bit after shutdown. I like to pull my hatch off as soon as possible after a flight on one where the pipe or cans are open to the inside of the fuse to let the heat out.
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
Thanks for that yes that makes sense I can see that when stopped it will build up a lot of heat in the fuselage. But when flying it's ok if it is vented ok. Thanks.
thurmma
150cc
I got away with a big one tonight!!! The engine started cutting out from time to time while flying but, it seemed like it was only in certain attitudes. I brushed it off as a fuel flow issue and did a little tweaking on the carb figuring the engine was finally done breaking in 
Everything seemed to be getting better so I took it up for one more quick trip round the field. While going down the back stretch it started cutting out worse than it had all night so I immediately landed and while walking behind the plane I noticed a green led going red when the engine was cutting out. We took the plane apart because it was getting dark and didn't want to troubleshoot with the wings on. After we got it apart I turned the plane on and started wiggling wires. The electronic ignition switch control wires were definitely not acting right.
When I got home I pulled the ignition switch out and the picture below is what I found!!! I have soldered a new heavy duty connector on and made sure the wires are supported better than they were before. I also replaced the positive and negative leads with much longer ones due to the location of the switch.
IMHO the control wires should have a stress relief of some sort as they come off the board. When I soldered the new connector on, I used double heat shrink for thickness. Then I put a piece of heat shrink around all 3 wires. Finally I put a final piece of heat shrink over the whole board and let it run down the wires about 1 1/2". Now it has proper stress relief and breakage should no longer be an issue.
The other thing I noticed is the blob job soldering A good, strong solder joint will show the strands of the wires and there will be a fillet where the wires are soldered to the board. I wish I would have taken pictures of my final result to show you what I mean. When you have a lot of solder, you are opening yourself up to cold solder joints. They may work for a period of time and then all of the sudden you start getting strange things happening and it can be a pain to troubleshoot. 20 years of electronics in the Marine Corps taught me more than I thought Semper Fi!
Everything seemed to be getting better so I took it up for one more quick trip round the field. While going down the back stretch it started cutting out worse than it had all night so I immediately landed and while walking behind the plane I noticed a green led going red when the engine was cutting out. We took the plane apart because it was getting dark and didn't want to troubleshoot with the wings on. After we got it apart I turned the plane on and started wiggling wires. The electronic ignition switch control wires were definitely not acting right.When I got home I pulled the ignition switch out and the picture below is what I found!!! I have soldered a new heavy duty connector on and made sure the wires are supported better than they were before. I also replaced the positive and negative leads with much longer ones due to the location of the switch.
IMHO the control wires should have a stress relief of some sort as they come off the board. When I soldered the new connector on, I used double heat shrink for thickness. Then I put a piece of heat shrink around all 3 wires. Finally I put a final piece of heat shrink over the whole board and let it run down the wires about 1 1/2". Now it has proper stress relief and breakage should no longer be an issue.
The other thing I noticed is the blob job soldering
A good, strong solder joint will show the strands of the wires and there will be a fillet where the wires are soldered to the board. I wish I would have taken pictures of my final result to show you what I mean. When you have a lot of solder, you are opening yourself up to cold solder joints. They may work for a period of time and then all of the sudden you start getting strange things happening and it can be a pain to troubleshoot. 20 years of electronics in the Marine Corps taught me more than I thought Semper Fi!
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
That was a good catch. That one could have been ugly but nothing happened and all is fixed.I got away with a big one tonight!!! The engine started cutting out from time to time while flying but, it seemed like it was only in certain attitudes. I brushed it off as a fuel flow issue and did a little tweaking on the carb figuring the engine was finally done breaking in
When I got home I pulled the ignition switch out and the picture below is what I found!!! I have soldered a new heavy duty connector on and made sure the wires are supported better than they were before. I also replaced the positive and negative leads with much longer ones due to the location of the switch.
IMHO the control wires should have a stress relief of some sort as they come off the board. When I soldered the new connector on, I used double heat shrink for thickness. Then I put a piece of heat shrink around all 3 wires. Finally I put a final piece of heat shrink over the whole board and let it run down the wires about 1 1/2". Now it has proper stress relief and breakage should no longer be an issue.
The other thing I noticed is the blob job soldering
View attachment 98369
BalsaDust
Moderator
Took the 75" extra out for a spin today. Had an issue with an aileron extension giving me trouble. Got that worked out and put the plane back together and into the air. Got very lucky. Forgot to put the wing bolt back in. Noticed a gap between the wing and fuse so I quickly put it back on the ground. Got that squared away and had more fun. Buddy of mine let me fly his PA AddictionX as well. Boy that thing is fun.
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
Yes I have an Addiction as well and it a great plane flys great and the design is second to none. Only thing in the wind it is a hand full.
RJ 706
70cc twin V2
Last trip to the field my throttle servo died as I was pushing the stick forward to take off. Local hobby shop did not have the servo I wanted, so I installed a JR 8711. Completely different feel from the one I replaced.
Also went to a slightly shorter SWB arm and was able to get it completely even on both sides of center so smooth power gain through the movement of the stick. Idle is more precise also. The other one required trimming during the day to maintain a consistent idle.
This was way more work than I expected, but it sure feels smooth.
Also went to a slightly shorter SWB arm and was able to get it completely even on both sides of center so smooth power gain through the movement of the stick. Idle is more precise also. The other one required trimming during the day to maintain a consistent idle.
This was way more work than I expected, but it sure feels smooth.