MattyMatt
70cc twin V2
Hey Brian... sure.
Piped motors are all about setup. First the length of the headers are in direct relation to the load of the prop. So, in general terms for a DA150/170, we run 10/12 pitch props... so the bigger the diameter the longer the pipes need to be. The 12" header on the 150 should be ok with a 32X10.
Next, set the low end (needle closest to the motor) at about 5/8 turns out from closed. Set the top end (needle farthest away from the motor), to 2 turns out from closed.
On a piped motor setup like you have, if it's a light switch the top end is usually rich. What happens is the carb goes rich before the motor gets on the pipe, and bogs... then it gets on the pipe, clears out and runs to the moon... and you're chasing it with the throttle stick.
Once you set the needles, fly it and see how it is. Don't be afraid to adjust it... it won't take much... 1/8 of a turn. Start with the bottom end, make sure it transitions from idle to half throttle. If it bogs open up the bottom the with of the screwdriver. Once it transitions well. Put it in the air.
If it still has a really bad jump on to the pipe, land... and lean the top end a width of the screwdriver at a time.
It will be very close to the settings i gave you to start with.
Once the tuning is done, it's time to do a curve. You'll need a point curve. Does the DX8 have a point curve? I don't remember.
Assuming it does, you'll see the linear line from bottom left to top right. I'd start with the stick about 1/3 from idle and put a point there, and another at about 3/4. Flatten the points in between, so it doesn't open the carb so quickly. Also, you'll probably want the first third to come up quicker. The engine is kind of lazy on the bottom end with the pipe.
That should get you started.
Piped motors are all about setup. First the length of the headers are in direct relation to the load of the prop. So, in general terms for a DA150/170, we run 10/12 pitch props... so the bigger the diameter the longer the pipes need to be. The 12" header on the 150 should be ok with a 32X10.
Next, set the low end (needle closest to the motor) at about 5/8 turns out from closed. Set the top end (needle farthest away from the motor), to 2 turns out from closed.
On a piped motor setup like you have, if it's a light switch the top end is usually rich. What happens is the carb goes rich before the motor gets on the pipe, and bogs... then it gets on the pipe, clears out and runs to the moon... and you're chasing it with the throttle stick.
Once you set the needles, fly it and see how it is. Don't be afraid to adjust it... it won't take much... 1/8 of a turn. Start with the bottom end, make sure it transitions from idle to half throttle. If it bogs open up the bottom the with of the screwdriver. Once it transitions well. Put it in the air.
If it still has a really bad jump on to the pipe, land... and lean the top end a width of the screwdriver at a time.
It will be very close to the settings i gave you to start with.
Once the tuning is done, it's time to do a curve. You'll need a point curve. Does the DX8 have a point curve? I don't remember.
Assuming it does, you'll see the linear line from bottom left to top right. I'd start with the stick about 1/3 from idle and put a point there, and another at about 3/4. Flatten the points in between, so it doesn't open the carb so quickly. Also, you'll probably want the first third to come up quicker. The engine is kind of lazy on the bottom end with the pipe.
That should get you started.
