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IMAC PAU Extra Build 105" assembly

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Why is the thickness a problem. Is it because you cannot get the spinner cover on.
Ok I read your notes again. The prop is so thick that the hold down plate does not contact the stub shaft for centring. Ok got it have to think about this one for a bit.
 
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Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Do not know what tools you have at your disposal. But one solution is to make sleeve over the stub shaft of the motor that is a little longer and them ream the bolt plate out to fit the OD of the sleeve. Eg if the stub shaft is 8mm then make the sleeve 8mm ID and the OD 10mm. You will have to ream the prop up to size.
Hope this helps
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Just got some longer bolts 55m M5 will do the trick for 26x12 but the 27x12 is another 3.5 mm thicker than the 26x12 prop .
Thanks for the suggestion Snoopy1 , i have a drill press but i rather leave the hub diameter at 5mm and use longer 55mm bolts .
If i have to i will get 60mm bolts 5M bolts , DA said it will do the trick so I'm trusting in their experience .;)
 
Hello Russel, I am asking for a friend of mine, with same airplane. Did you enclose the pipe tunnel so the heat does not make its way to the radio area?
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Hi Cam , i did lay down some 1/16 balsa wood over the the plywood to direct the heat from the pipes out through the ventilation underneath.
Yes to keep the radio area cool .
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Here's an update on my progress

I went to the hoby shop and got a small can of red spray paint which i used on the baffles going around the 120 engine ..:)
You can see the Ignition is sitting on floating mount i purchased from Traildragger RC should keep the vibrations away from the circuits in the ignition:attaboy:
You can also see some steel weight of 4.5 oz behind the top air dam and other six ounces behind the firewall .
The temp sensors are routed in and used silcon to preent it from moving to much .



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The mounting of one of the R3 receivers in the rear of the fuselage area.

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I good shot showing how all three battues are positioned in the firewall . You can see the weights on the bottom just behind the firewall stock.
I used some G10 underneath the floor of where the batteries are laying for some extra reinforcement to secure the batteries down with velcro tape .

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A good pic of how everything is arranged to help with the CG issue since i'm using pipes instead of canisters and had to keep everything as much forward as possible.:oblong:



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These are secraft wing bolt 1/4- 20 with a threaded rod and bolt .
So instead of using permant loctite which is red i decide to use Hysol epoxy to fasten the threaded rod to the bolt end now it's just like a bolt fastening the wing .
I want to see if the rod will come loose from the nut area over time ..:do_not_know:
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So just got the power leads for the power box ignition kill and i have to route them in .
I do like how simple and easy it was to install
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Alright alright alright , here's some pic just today of the power box ignition kill and how the two jeti R3 receives are postioned in the fuselage


this is the left side of the fuse the R3 is fastened to the plywood underneath which is also used for the tune pipe brackets in the tunnel way .
Still have to fasten the Powerbox down and route the wires together , you can see the red led light is on telling me the ignition is armed and ready now just have to glue it to the G10 board .
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i'm waiting for my labeling tape to mark all my leads for future reference and so i won't connect the wrong servo's leads ..
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Great job looks good and clean. Looks like canisters move the CG back will have to watch for that on my Typhoon. I still in the market for a radio do not if I will ever make up my mind . What radio did you have before the Jeti.
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Spectrum D9 and onold JR10 from 2000 , before that it was Airitronics for 15 years or so .
I would still look at Jeti they are amazing at what can be done through them .
Yesterday i just assigned at servo function for the ignition kill , using one of the flap pins on the receiver i switched it to a toggle switch under pin 5 on my reciever so now the Smartbox ignition can be turn on and off separately from the radio power .:fist_pump:
 
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