Krill Extra 330 LX building thread

[TazmanianDevil]

Very rigid and light.
You don't need to add extra wood bolts and screws to the frame. Once the two halves are connected they are very tight.
You'll need to add some tape to the surfaces that are rubbing each other between the halves to avoid the rubbing but it's like every composite plane I've built.
It will reduce significantly the noise and chafe.

 

[Pistolera]

I guess what I was getting at is you still have to pull the prop to gain access to the bottom of the engine, which is where most of the maintenance resides. A full split cowling allows this....and is no more problematic than any other cowling.

I split mine on my 35% Krill for just that reason. This was before they started doing the full nose with only the top 1/2 removable. Just not sure why one would wish to remove the top 1/2.....admire the engine maybe?

 

[TazmanianDevil]

Gotchya'.
I agree, if you'll need to access the bottom of the engine you'll need to take the prop off and that what split cowling is all about.
But, what they did and thought about maybe is like a car's hood.
Ones in a while you just want to see if everything is ok with the engine like plugs bolts and other stuff that doesn't need a higher level of maintaining.
With just two screws the hood is off and you can check it just like the canopy.

 

[TazmanianDevil]

Also what I had in mind was the ease in all the baffling and other stuff you want to install, telemetry etc...

 

[TazmanianDevil]

Canisters time.
Made them my self.
At first they've weighted about 2.8oz but then I've found out that I'll need to add some more height to the mounts about 3/4".
After the height addition the mounts are now weigh 4.4oz.

With the Dremel tool everything is easy so it took a little bit of hand drawing the holes for the cans and then some modification to fit it right and make it efficient for air to travel around the cans for cooling.

The rubbers that hold the cans are regular gas hose it will fit it self when I'll do the break in.

The holes in the fuse are a little bit bigger with a tiny hole in the bottom to fit the cans on the headers without taking the headers off.

The cans exhaust are very long so there is no need to add something to make the gasses go out after the fuse bottom line.

Next will be the throttle servo buffls and the NACA ducts for the cooling.

 

[Alky6]

Nice!

 

[Jlc]

I guess what I was getting at is you still have to pull the prop to gain access to the bottom of the engine, which is where most of the maintenance resides. A full split cowling allows this....and is no more problematic than any other cowling.

I split mine on my 35% Krill for just that reason. This was before they started doing the full nose with only the top 1/2 removable. Just not sure why one would wish to remove the top 1/2.....admire the engine maybe?

Delro has it like pistolero mentioned. Easy access to bottom of engine but should still be very rigid. Not going to keep me from trying to buy the Krill though.

 

[Joe Hunt]

Such a great picture!

 

[TazmanianDevil]

Jlc what's the baffle in the middle of the cowl ?

Thanks Joe. Ariel just live to help building his new plane. ;-)

 

[TazmanianDevil]

Servo is done.
Tanks and fuel line are done too.
Because the ignition is in side connection to the SmartFly engine cut off can be really a pain in the ars so I just took it out of the fuse so it will be easier.

Installed the cowl the gap between the spinner back plate and the cowl is about 2 mm and it's a little bit offset to the left just in case I'll need extra right thrust.