I hate getting F'ed on a motor

[stangflyer]

I am most certainly no guru...."YET". But I do like that 3dub. A couple of times my friends have been at the field when I have taken the 260 out. Upon firing that girl up, I've heard the commments, "just listen to that". "Now "that"..."that" motor means business"! And it goes to say, they ain't lyin'. 

Reyn3545, You seem much happier this evening than you were a couple of nights ago. I am very pleased for you. Now git out there and "huck" that thing. 

 

[reyn3545]

Soon... I may just stick with longer bolts in the hub.  If so, that will save me several weeks of shop time.  I'm waiting on some wheels/hubs from White Rose, and I still need to mount the receivers and batteries.  About 2 hours work at most.  We've got some other things to do this weekend, I'll be in Mexico for most of next week, but maybe the following weekend, weather permitting, I'll get it off the ground.

 

[stangflyer]

reyn3545 said
Soon... I may just stick with longer bolts in the hub.  If so, that will save me several weeks of shop time.  I'm waiting on some wheels/hubs from White Rose, and I still need to mount the receivers and batteries.  About 2 hours work at most.  We've got some other things to do this weekend, I'll be in Mexico for most of next week, but maybe the following weekend, weather permitting, I'll get it off the ground.

If it helps...I did discover the thread depth on these motors is right at 7/8". Pretty deep threads. I was able to get some 65mm length bolts and with the thickness of the PT Carbon Fiber 32x10 along with the spinner back plate and prop washer, it left me right at 3/4" of threads going into the hub. I think I am set....

How far in are the threads stripped? If you still have over half depth, you could get at least half an inch as Terry had suggested.

"Yes change out, I do every 5 times I have the prop off (with carbon props).      Reason is they stretch and get weaker.      I get boxes of 20-25 from McMasters because Fastenal wants an arm and part of a leg for them.     I also use nord-lock fasteners on the prop bolts instead of lock washers for a little added security.      Washers are expensive but especially the stainless ones can be used countless times.     Rule is 2-2.5 times the dia.    I normally shoot for 1/2-5/8" minimum with 3/4 being my goal.     Class 12.9 seems stronger than most bolts included with engines, I even replace the ones included with my DA's after a couple times of use:     http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3094/=ucjdg6

 

[reyn3545]

I'm using a Biela 3-blade, which has a pretty thick hub also, so when I first installed the prop, I went from the standard 50mm to 55mm (McMaster is right here in town, they ship the same day, I receive the next).  I don't remember exactly how much thread is sticking out of the 55mm, about 1/2 inch I would guess. I'm using 65mm bolts for the stripped hole and the one across from it.  I also use Nordlocks on the prop bolts, torqued down to 80 inch/pounds for CF props. 

 

[stangflyer]

reyn3545 said
I'm using a Biela 3-blade, which has a pretty thick hub also, so when I first installed the prop, I went from the standard 50mm to 55mm (McMaster is right here in town, they ship the same day, I receive the next).  I don't remember exactly how much thread is sticking out of the 55mm, about 1/2 inch I would guess. I'm using 65mm bolts for the stripped hole and the one across from it.  I also use Nordlocks on the prop bolts, torqued down to 80 inch/pounds for CF props. 

I can't see where you're going to have any issues. I'm definitely a believer of the Nord-locks now... who'd of thunk?