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DLE-111 Three Year Inspection & Overhaul

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
Only one way to find out ....Flip Flip Flip Flip.....uh....Flip Flip..."pop"...yes... Flip Flip Farooomm!!!
 
Thanks Dimes. I don't know anything about this stuff but I'm learning; things I try I've probably read on a forum somewhere. There is a lot of experienced pilots/mechanics out here and chances are someone has "been there; done that" before.

Doing minor mechanical work is a part of this hobby I enjoy. Not being an engine mechanic sometimes makes you wonder if you'll screw something up from trying something like this. It was actually very simple to do and hopefully this thread will help someone thinking of replacing a piston, installing a new ring(s), changing a wrist pin/bearing, etc. to go ahead and turn the wrench.

The big question though, how's it going to run??

Looks good Rex, keep us posted!!
 

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
Success! Several flips on choke and got a pop, two more flips and the DLE-111 was running. Seems very smooth but won't have a good feel for the vibration until I put on the canopy and watch what's going on with the pilot figure. Only ran the engine for about 3 minutes and nothing flew off the engine...........lol. Most likely will need a slight adjustment on the tune, may need to bump the idle up a couple hundred rpm's. I won't start the engine again until a decent day comes along and I can get out and fly.
 

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
Great! Capt. Roll Now we can add this to "success" systems.( Sorry, I could not help it. I will start seeing a shrink.)
 

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
I was able to get out and put 4 flights on the engine with the new Bowman rings yesterday, about 30 minutes. Ran through my half gallon of Stihl HP on a 27X10 prop. Once the HP was gone I put my Falcon 28X9.5 back on and made one 6 minute flight with the Stihl Ultra HP back in the tank.

For sure the engine has more compression; can feel it when flipping the prop to start. I'm sure this is due to the much tighter ring gap at the pin. Engine sounds strong in the air and does seem to be a little smoother at idle. The engine has a good start on the break-in period and hopfully on the way to another 25+ gallons of service before having to do anything to it.

Next up as far as the engine is concerned is to check the reeds and reed block. No hurry to get that done as the engine starts easily and runs great.
 
Rex,
Have you ever done the reed block mods as described by grosbeak?
BTW, happy thanksgiving and i am happy your engine is running great!
 

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
I've done the reed block on my PTE-36R and installed the Bowman ring. I have a Bowman for my EME-60 to install and will do the reed block for that engine when I install the ring. The DLE will get the reed block checked sometime in the next few weeks.

Happy Thanksgiving!
 

reyn3545

100cc
Great thread, and glad to see the motor is running well for you. I noticed that on your prop bolts, you have lock washers and standard washers. Have you ever considered Nordlocks? I went to them a few years ago. I still check the torque once in a while, but they've never loosened... fairly inexpensive too!
 

Capt.Roll

70cc twin V2
I have Nordlocks here but not used them on prop bolts. The washer/lock washer setup is keeping the bolts tight for me.
 

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
I've done the reed block on my PTE-36R and installed the Bowman ring. I have a Bowman for my EME-60 to install and will do the reed block for that engine when I install the ring. The DLE will get the reed block checked sometime in the next few weeks.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Hope you had a good T-Day.

Not saying you do not have to but....The EME 60 has a four petal reed system and Derlin carrier and reed housing.
It is just like the one DA uses. When I rebuilt my 60 I found the reeds seating just fine. And to date after letting it set for over six months it drew fuel and started normally for the first start and 1 or 2 flips after words with out choking!
I have a buddy (and I did too for a while) who operates the DLE 55 and it always takes a long time and a lot of flips to initially get it started (needs reed mod). It has larger 2 petal system and because of a larger "area" may be more suspect to distorting seating surfaces over time due to normal operating temps. That is the main reason you have thermal insulators against the crankcase. All I'm saying is the EME should not need the mod.
 
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