DLE-111 Three Year Inspection & Overhaul
- Thread starter Capt.Roll
- Start date
Decal Dennis
TEAM EP&G
From what I can see in the pics, she looks pretty good....I'd go with your choice of maintenance!
bobzilla
70cc twin V2
Hi Jedi, I was wondering why/how do you do this adding originals over?
Capt.Roll
70cc twin V2
This evening I pulled the right jug and removed both pistons from the rods. The right side looked about the same as the left side parts so I didn't take any pictures of the right side components. All-in-all everything seems to be in very good condition. Other than the deposits on the crown of the piston, the ring groove is very clean and the sides of the pistons show very little skirt wear and scuffing.
The wrist pin may be an area of concern, I'm not sure if the two rings on the pin are just normal wear from the bearing or if it could be some bluing due to an elevated temperature at one time. I don't see an other signs of excessive heat unless the carbon deposit on top of the piston and in the top of the cylinders is due to overly hot running temperatures.
The wrist pin may be an area of concern, I'm not sure if the two rings on the pin are just normal wear from the bearing or if it could be some bluing due to an elevated temperature at one time. I don't see an other signs of excessive heat unless the carbon deposit on top of the piston and in the top of the cylinders is due to overly hot running temperatures.
Capt.Roll
70cc twin V2
It took me a couple of hours to clean up the pistons; most of the effort was spent on removing the deposits off the crown. I purchased a can of Berryman Chem-Dip Carb & Parts Cleaner (90 oz. can) to soak the pistons in and then used a brass fine wire brush and a piece of formica laminate. The wire brush worked pretty good but the piece of laminate has a nice edge to it that easily scraped away the carbon as the Berryman's softened it. They turned out pretty clean. Definitely want to use the Berryman outside and wear protective gloves and eyewear.
Ohio AV8TOR
Just Do It
Looking good Rex
Jedijody
50cc
Well, I'd post a picture for you but I'm not at home and won't be for at least a couple of weeks. But it's pretty much exactly what it sounds like.
The V2 DLE111 has a tendency to fray the tips of the reeds because they are too flexible. To prevent the dynamic flexing that causes them to whiplash like a bull whip and fray/chip;
1) Procure a new set of reeds and gaskets
2) Remove the old reeds
3) Cut the reeds to 1/2 their length
4) Radius the corners of the cut ends to match the new ones with fine sand paper
5) Install the new reeds against the reed cage then the cut down set over the top of them
This prevents the reeds from "whipping' at the tips as much and will help prevent them from chipping the tips off. Will need to re-tune but it will not hurt performance at all, it some cases it can improve it.
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Ohio AV8TOR
Just Do It
That is a great fix Jody. Back in the late 80's I built a lot of tooling for Terry Mossbarger and his racing reeds have been super successful. You suggestion is a simple approach to what we did. I like your idea.
http://www.mossbargerracing.com/tuning.htm
http://www.mossbargerracing.com/tuning.htm
Capt.Roll
70cc twin V2
Now that the pistons are clean I checked the weight at work this morning. They were very close with one being 44.95 grams and the other being 45.44 grams. I took the heavy piston and clean up the casting flash and removed some weight on the inside of the piston in areas that I felt would not compromise strength or mess with the porting. Both piston's are now 44.95 grams.
I'm not sure how removing 0.5g will impact running/vibration but it shouldn't hurt. Kind of make me wonder how balanced the crankshaft and connecting rods are??
I'm not sure how removing 0.5g will impact running/vibration but it shouldn't hurt. Kind of make me wonder how balanced the crankshaft and connecting rods are??