Naughty Monkey
100cc
He is probably honored! I had visions of cartwheels down the runway, but looks like it's OK. I was going to say that now it is dinged, you can relax and fly the snot out if it, but I have a feeling you already do!
Assembly: Aeroworks QB 150cc Yak 55M
- Thread starter Joe Hunt
- Start date
Joe Hunt
150cc
Maybe I'd better be a bit more conservative for awhile. haha
Joe Hunt
150cc
Okay, pretty poor quality video. haha Just threw a GoPro on my head and started talking. Points I was trying to make:
1) protractors help you get your servos as synchronized as possible
2) you still want good leverage, resolution, and linearity with that synchronization
3) if you think your (2nd person plural) method is great, maybe it is, maybe you're right, but check it with a protractor, you may find that you can refine it even still
4) having your control horn pivot point in the hinge line could mean less than ideal pushrod angles and somewhat limited throw for high rates.
5) what I meant to say about tailwheel geometry and ground handling, is that guys think they need to setup their geometry wrong to get good ground handling. But they don't, you can set it up correctly and have great ground handling too.
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Joe Hunt
150cc
Thanks, although I do tend to ramble extravagantly. haha
Joe Hunt
150cc
From another review where I'm talking about pushrod angles:
Here’s some notes on how I drilled my own pilot holes located differently than the factory pilot holes… and how I measure to come up with that location:
The combination of not being 90 and also being out of level has a lot of people looking at it weird and also telling you it’s wrong. lol:
But here are four reasons why it is not:
It doesn’t take but a minute to drill pilot holes in new locations. And, Aeroworks gives you a generously sized hard point to keep this from being any kind of problem. I’ve seen, and replaced, some slack factory hard points in these 1/3 scale ARFs from other manufacturers, but never from Aeroworks, their hard points are solid:
Here’s some notes on how I drilled my own pilot holes located differently than the factory pilot holes… and how I measure to come up with that location:
The combination of not being 90 and also being out of level has a lot of people looking at it weird and also telling you it’s wrong. lol:
But here are four reasons why it is not:
It doesn’t take but a minute to drill pilot holes in new locations. And, Aeroworks gives you a generously sized hard point to keep this from being any kind of problem. I’ve seen, and replaced, some slack factory hard points in these 1/3 scale ARFs from other manufacturers, but never from Aeroworks, their hard points are solid:
jamesrxx951
100cc
Joe, great video. It is pretty much how I set up my multi servo surfaces. I may have missed it but when I set up my servos my end points in the radio are all exact. Say 120% for this discussion. I leave that end point there and do not adjust it. I will then use the turn buckle and change sub trim for "new center" till I get equal travel on full up and full down. Once I get that I zero sub trim and will use multiple different arms to try and get my sub trim as close to 0 as possible. I now use airwild unihubs to get that tuning even better. So now I will have my end points equal in the radio with slightly different subtrim values. By tuning for closer to 0 sub trim is usually good for a few extra degree's in surface deflection. I usually don't take the arm off but for checking for binding I will remove one of the surface control horn bolts and "eye up the hole" where the bolt should go to see if there is any change in balance. If there is then I will use the servo balance to fix it. With my JR brushless servos I found this to be the best because an amp meter does not work very well for checking binding.
Naughty Monkey
100cc
Nice Joe. You ever think about being a hand model?
Thanks to you, my tail wheel geometry is good!
Thanks to you, my tail wheel geometry is good!