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42% electronics

Discussion in 'IMAC>>>Aircraft, Techniques, Equipment, etc.' started by andersons, Oct 1, 2014.

  1. stangflyer

    stangflyer I like 'em "BIG"!

    Uh-uh...not bad at all. I use the P.E.P. along with the Pin and Flag, (20.00 bucks) For about $170.00 and some shipping, it'll give you a clean, robust and versatile system. 
  2. flynbulldog

    flynbulldog New to GSN!

    Hi guys, I suppose that everyone has an opinion so I'll give you mine. I've been flying giant scale stuff and 40% aircraft since they were first used in the TOC way back in the 90's. I used to use two receivers to split the current load but with testing I later found out that the bus on a typical Rx could handle far more than all of the servos combined could draw. I've been flying 40% planes doing everything from 3D to unlimited IMAC sequences on a single receiver with 2 battery packs and a single ignition battery for more than 15 years now. It works just fine. There's no need for power buses/expanders or other additional electronics in your plane. Of course if you like the idea of more electronics I think most of the stuff on the market works pretty good these days.

    I'm building a new Carden 124 pro for next season and it will be using JR's new Xbus system with a central power hub. I really like the engineering behind this canbus technology and believe it's a step beyond what we've had so far. Does the plane really need it? probably not.
    IMAC FANATIC likes this.
  3. Without going in to detail, here are some more things to consider.

    In addition to the power boards already mentioned, there are some other brands. Redwing RC carries a power expander and power box made by RCCSKJ. Sorry, do not know anything about them. Troybuilt Models used to carry Down and Locked (formerly Wike RC) and 42-Percent power boards but looks like they have dropped them off their site. Not sure if either one of these brands is still around. I’ve used a Wike power board in my 102” Yak for over three year without any issues.

    Regarding switches, just make sure that the switch you use, should it fail, still provides power to your electrical system. Many of the power distribution type boards can be turned on/off with a simple toggle/slide/pin type switch. If the switch circuit fails the power board will default to “on”. One thing on the pin type switches, if someone else needs to turn off the power to your plane, chances are the pin may be in your pocket. That’s fine if you’re close but you may be halfway across the field.

    You really don’t need a separate ignition pack; run the ignition off the flight packs. Purchase the Tech Aero (Syssa) IBEC or similar ignition kill and use a channel on your RX to enable/disable your ignition. This gives you the ability to kill the ignition/engine via your TX.

    Batteries……pick your poison. I don’t think there is any one type that is clearly the best/better technology. I started with A123’s and have used them for over three years without issues. They are more difficult to load check and cell voltage readings don’t mean anything; you have to know how many milliamps your system will use per minute of operation to determine when to recharge.
  4. This is how I run my 42% Edge. I run dual rx's for the reason of splitting the aircraft surfaces so if one fails for one reason or another, I can still hopefully get the plane on the ground. I run 2 rx's, 3 batteries, one for each rx and one for ignition. I run 2 Sahara regulators, one between each rx and battery. These regulators have separate outputs for the rx and the matchboxes in each wing so the servos can draw what they want without affecting the voltage level at the rx :) I also run separate switches for each rx and the ignition.

    I also have a 36% that I purchased with a smartfly board in it with a single rx. Personally, I will be removing the smartfly and replacing it with dual rx's, just gives me a warm fuzzy when flying. This plane does have 3 batteries also, 2 for the smartfly and one for ignition.

    Hope that helps more than it confuses you :)
    stangflyer likes this.
  5. jamesrxx951

    jamesrxx951 100cc

    If I was in your boat I would use dual Futaba R7008SB's receiver's. I like the idea of splitting the plane in half for with receiver's. The likely hood of a receiver failure is very little I find it to be cheap peace of mind. If you like the clean look on the fuse, you can have Fromeco regulators turned on and off with either a small failsafe switch like what is used on JR/Spektrum power safe recievers, a pin flag switch from Smart fly, or a JR/Spektrum bind plug to complete the switch circuit. If you want to use A123's, or unregulated lipo's or Li-ions a wolverine switch from Fromeco is an excellent choice. The switch is larger than other switch's but I do not find them to be an eye sore.

    My preference for a setup in your situation would be dual recievers, Fromeco wolverine switch with 4 JR plug outputs. 2 plugs per receiver and use 2300 or 4600 genuine A123 batteries.
  6. 49dimes

    49dimes Damn I'm hungry

    Believe it or not Futaba recommends Smart Fly. All of my large planes use the expander pro. All equipped with R6014HS receivers. I Tested 3 of the RCCSKJ boards and all three failed vibration, and voltage tests. Two would not hold the voltage setting dialed in and one would keep cutting out the ignition voltage. VERY risky board. I know they have several models (Four I think) but the three I tested were the top of the line.

    Why Futaba recommends Smart Fly or Other "similar" board you ask???
    Because it buffers and boosts the receiver signal voltage from 3vdc to 5vdc.
    Some servos analog or digital will freak out on 3vdc signal. It also aids in the use of long servo extensions which are necessary in the big boyz.
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
  7. jamesrxx951

    jamesrxx951 100cc

    What recievers are the boards in that you are referring to? Also do you have a link where Futaba recommends Smart fly. I have a lot of friends that fly Futaba and several are team pilots that use 2 7008 recievers are dual 14 channel recievers with no Smart fly boards.
  8. 49dimes

    49dimes Damn I'm hungry

    Going through my files of product manuals it has dawned on me that this is mainly related to the R6014FS receivers which use IC's rated @2.7 volts. None the less the product advisory lists Smart Fly, Power Box, EMcotec. because they incorporate a "Buffer-Amplifier Interphase" (Also an Electro Dynamics product.)

    Last edited: Nov 29, 2014
  9. Flatspinjim

    Flatspinjim 50cc

    The older 6014FS recievers had problems with some servos. The newer 6014HS reciever addressed that problem

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