3W 106 strange behavior

[thurmma]

Fuel can pool at the back of the crankcase in the "lower" corner which would be the right side of the engine in your case. Being that the crank is also spinning to the right in relation to the pooled right corner it is easily picked back up in to the induction bath and gives a quench to the cylinder. I guess a good term to use would be "slugging".

So are you positive it is a lean condition causing you to sag???. I had similar issues with the old 3w 120 years ago. But for me it was in a harrier or hover and when going back to straight and level it would hick up and want to stall the engine.

Definitely lean. No burble at all. Just like when the needle is to lean and you try to transition on the ground and it just sags. If it was rich it should be stumbling all over itself and that would be ok in my book. Rich lives to fly another day, lean will meet the green. Pretty cool, I just thought of that

 

[thurmma]

I will try to richen the low end just a touch and see what happens. I will also try to get some video if it is still acting up so everyone can see what is happening.

 

[49dimes]

My 3W-106 (Blue head) purrs like a kitten. Of course it's had regular servicing by Gerhard. I had a couple of club members talking about it on Saturday, stopped me on the way back to my area to ask me what engine I was using.
Bunky F Knuckle is correct, a well running 3W hesitates just a little during transition.

Yes he is and I don't know why Is missing from my earlier post???under his. Just pointing out other.

 

[jon595]

Are your carb nuts tight? Mine would loosen over time and it would start hesitating in the air. Wouldnt do it on the ground. I would always replace the carb mounting gasket when this happens and it will be good to go for a couple more years.

 

[thurmma]

I actually pulled the carb off last night and went through it very thoroughly. Even pulled the aluminum caps out and cleaned everything and flattened the surface on the aluminum reed and carb blocks :-( I thought they were supposed to be flat already, but I had seepage around part of the reed block where it meets the crank case and the reed block was not flat. So I did both sides, the carb block and the reed cage side that goes towards the carb also. It was the worst. I buttoned everything up and fired it up on the ground to get the needles in a somewhat good state and hope to fly it tonight to see what happens.

 

[jon595]

Cool, I got into the habit of putting some Threebond 1211 on the gaskets to alleviate any source of an air leak. Just a little bit though. Air leaks and stock ignitions have been the only problems I have had with my 106 and 110.

 

[thurmma]

I used hi-tack on the jug gaskets, but wanted to make sure that I could get the carb and reed block of if I needed to. I did use a drop of blue thread lock on each bolt this time when I reassembled the carb and the reed block assy.

 

[Bunky.F.Knuckle]

It has been a few years since I have ran my 106. Maybe I need to take the DA 120 off my Corvus, and put the real engine on it, and go with the 28x9 Falcon CF?? Corvus is already cut up for mufflers.

 

[dhal22]

It has been a few years since I have ran my 106. Maybe I need to take the DA 120 off my Corvus, and put the real engine on it, and go with the 28x9 Falcon CF?? Corvus is already cut up for mufflers.

I've acquired a couple of used DA's recently but would have preferred them to be 3W's. Such strong engines with the higher compression....

 

[Bunky.F.Knuckle]

There are times, on the ground, that my 120 will not transition. Its like it is stuck on idle.

I may do that when I get back home in a week or 2.

When are you gonna mess around with your 106 again?