Scale 112” - Taylorcraft by HeyLuc & Snoopy.

[Snoopy1]

What was your layup on the Fiberglass version. 32 oz sounds very heavy.

If my memory serves me right
1. first layer 2oz
2. second and third layer 4oz
3. fourth layer 6oz cloth and then and extra ring around base for the screws and an extra layer in the nose for spinner and air ducting cutouts.
I do believe my problem was to much epoxy trying to wet it out and it was difficult. I also should of used a lot of paper towels to soak up the epoxy and make it as dry as possible which I did not do. You can also see how the epoxy puddles form in the nose from sitting overnight curing. Not a good job, better next time.

 

[Snoopy1]

I just weighted the cowl for the 30% Chipmunk, it is a large cowl 12 1/2" wide and 18" long, it is just over 16 ounces. Based on thickness I would say it is about 12 ounces per yard of cloth.
That's one nice job there Snoop.

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When you say 12oz you mean any combination that gets you up to 12oz. So mine is 16oz and then some that is to much plus excess epoxy. It’s amazingly how quickly you can add weight to a part. Thanks for the input.

 

[Snoopy1]

I want to concentrate on the plane and hopefully get it ready to fly this spring. Still have long way to go.
But I keep thinking of making a foam block glue it to the front of the plane and then shape it to what it is required. Then remove it from the plane. Then vacuum glass the foam plug with a total of 12oz of cloth. When cured dig the form out. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice if did it the foam block method.

 

[Snoopy1]

Ok when I was just doing a quick check on the landing gear a while back it seamed it could be on the light side not sure. So I decided to add some pull pull springs to the gear. The springs are good for 30 lbs per inch. This will be built into the gear.

 

[TonyHallo]

I want to concentrate on the plane and hopefully get it ready to fly this spring. Still have long way to go.
But I keep thinking of making a foam block glue it to the front of the plane and then shape it to what it is required. Then remove it from the plane. Then vacuum glass the foam plug with a total of 12oz of cloth. When cured dig the form out. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice if did it the foam block method.

Why not just use the mold and make a new cowl? I've done the lost foam method, clean out is a pain. I used foam to make the wing tips plugs for the Cherokee, cheaper than balsa!

 

[dhal22]

Who was the prolific builder over on rscb? Twin engine everything. He passed away a few years ago but still has great cowl building videos on YT.

 

[dhal22]

Savarg………

 

[Snoopy1]

Why not just use the mold and make a new cowl? I've done the lost foam method, clean out is a pain. I used foam to make the wing tips plugs for the Cherokee, cheaper than balsa!

Thanks, and yes you are correct I went through a lot of very good balsa to build the cowl. It was all 4 to 5 lbs per cubic foot.

 

[TonyHallo]

Who was the prolific builder over on rscb? Twin engine everything. He passed away a few years ago but still has great cowl building videos on YT.

Merlyn Graves?

 

[frydaddy08]

Yes, he started yeeeaaarrs ago with making plaster moulds from ABS parts and wood, then went to Ultracal from wood/foam forms. I don't remember if he did any moulds with epoxy/resin gel coats and cloth over wood/foam like is the norm now. Everyone fiberglasses the wood/foam and then waxes and coats with partall to get the mould off. I recently made my first mould from an ABS part using Miller-Stephenson PTFE spray on release. Took a little effort to get the ABS out but there was NO sticking.