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110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

Which Gas Engine will you use!?!?


  • Total voters
    51

WMcNabb

150cc
My problem is I have had a few engines in my life and fixed numerous engines for some of my friends and the four DA’s that I own have been flawless never sent them in for service or anything, just go to the field 5 to six flips and all four run as good as the day I bought them. So it is hard for me not to take a long look at another for the Timber with a side exhaust.

What about a DA70? Will it fit?
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Twins are nice for many reasons but not for this plane. To wide and I think it will be way to heavy. Do not have the plane in my hands yet but @AKNick would know better right now.

I measured the cowl on post #33 on page 4. FWIW the VVRC 40cc twin is 8" across cap to cap (angled plugs) and still 7" head to head. The Timber is 8" across at the back of the cowl and tapers forward to about 6.5" in the front. If I do some rude calculations 3" back from the top of the cowl measures 7.25" so could the VVRC actually fit.... boy it's close... will the plug caps stick out the side... Big YES.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
I measured the cowl on post #33 on page 4. FWIW the VVRC 40cc twin is 8" across cap to cap (angled plugs) and still 7" head to head. The Timber is 8" across at the back of the cowl and tapers forward to about 6.5" in the front. If I do some rude calculations 3" back from the top of the cowl measures 7.25" so could the VVRC actually fit.... boy it's close... will the plug caps stick out the side... Big YES.

So to conclude from that the heads of the DA 70 would stick out, and the weight would mean having to add weight which is something I try not to do is adding dead weight to a plane. Also if the heads stick out the cowl will have to be split and splitting a painted cowl is pain.

Just checked the DA70 across the plugs it 10 5/8 wide so about 8 5/8 across the heads if not more. So the heads would be sticking out a good inch per side yes that means splitting the cowl. I may consider if it did not need to add weight to balance.
 
Last edited:

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Solved my engine mount spacer debacle. Had a nice chunk of phenolic that’s just over a 1/4” thick. Perfecto. Found a 7/8” hole saw with a little bit that was drilled out to accommodate the bolts... in which I got some longer ones as well. I now have enough cowl to spinner clearance to make me happy.
1B36B3DF-E18E-4E36-8104-2B9FA849BC22.jpeg BC15B02F-5D06-442E-8CDE-2D053AD90485.jpeg 428E51C8-6396-4820-874F-F9BDED75F131.jpeg
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Prepped the control horns with 100 grit, and wiped with isopropyl, touched the corners with a file.

7629E199-C88D-4E0D-83CC-61A1170AB78C.jpeg
C1BC2489-D5CD-4C6A-88A6-37161E6374EB.jpeg

One thing I’ve never understood is why make a beveled control surface with a setup that won’t allow you to hit the stops. This is my newest debacle
B1E479A7-CC8A-482F-A661-2B7807441943.jpeg
Long 2” arm on the lower control horn hole, and the ball link catches on the control horn. I don’t know why they don’t just make one with holes that go perpendicular to the hinge line only.... tricky to figure out the geometry.
2AC96F5F-61A3-43A2-8E52-7ABB50AFBE4E.jpeg
Everything fit in the slots pretty good except the rudder. A little trimming and it’s looking good.
5BC964D9-D72E-4B87-B304-AED61456A2FB.jpeg

So I’ve got the elevator horns and rudder horns glued up. Need to play with the wings more. And probably order up some longer servo arms. Looks like I can get away with 1.5” on the elevators on the lower hole.
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Ran out of servo wire.. Hanson hobbies to the rescue. I have some twisted 20ga enroute.

Also, I don’t like the carb arms supplied. Ordered up some extended arms for the DLE55. Along with that, a bowman ring, and a fancy carb plate from VVRC.... shoot maybe I should have just got the DA60 ha ha ha. Spending my way up to one!

The tail wheel is bugging me. It’s so small with my big tires. I am considering 3D Printing a new fork for a bigger tire.... could be fun. The worst thing that could happen is it may break and become a tail dragger then print another ha ha.

Bedtime!:sleeping:
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Prepped the control horns with 100 grit, and wiped with isopropyl, touched the corners with a file.

View attachment 110925
View attachment 110926

One thing I’ve never understood is why make a beveled control surface with a setup that won’t allow you to hit the stops. This is my newest debacle
View attachment 110927
Long 2” arm on the lower control horn hole, and the ball link catches on the control horn. I don’t know why they don’t just make one with holes that go perpendicular to the hinge line only.... tricky to figure out the geometry.
View attachment 110928
Everything fit in the slots pretty good except the rudder. A little trimming and it’s looking good.
View attachment 110929

So I’ve got the elevator horns and rudder horns glued up. Need to play with the wings more. And probably order up some longer servo arms. Looks like I can get away with 1.5” on the elevators on the lower hole.

Wow nick 2 inch arm and the lowest hole will take away a lot of torque from the servo, and those ailerons look pretty big. Will need some pretty good servos to do the job.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Ran out of servo wire.. Hanson hobbies to the rescue. I have some twisted 20ga enroute.

Also, I don’t like the carb arms supplied. Ordered up some extended arms for the DLE55. Along with that, a bowman ring, and a fancy carb plate from VVRC.... shoot maybe I should have just got the DA60 ha ha ha. Spending my way up to one!

The tail wheel is bugging me. It’s so small with my big tires. I am considering 3D Printing a new fork for a bigger tire.... could be fun. The worst thing that could happen is it may break and become a tail dragger then print another ha ha.

Bedtime!:sleeping:
Can you print over the existing tail wheel bracket and just extend the two arms for a bigger wheel.
 
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