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110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

Which Gas Engine will you use!?!?


  • Total voters
    51

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Got a small start on it to day made a small jig to hold the rudder horns in place, centred and square to the rudder, while the epoxy is setting up.

E91D9CD4-5F12-4301-ADAB-014333999556.jpeg
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
@AKNick have a question. On the Timber was just reading through the manual and this in regards to the rudder. The manual says set the horn on the rudder at 5/8 inch from centreline. Which is 1 1/4 across measured the rudder horns and they are 3 1/2 apart, does not make sense they should be the same if you want the cables to stay tight. What did you do. Also did you cross your wires or not.
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Congratulations!! That is one sharp looking model!
The scale Alaskan Bushwheels are a great addition.
Thank you!!

So the maiden. I had a good friend taunting me to fly it and get the maiden out of the way lol. ok ok. To my surprise I didn't even have to touch the DLE55 needles, It ran well, a little rich on the low end but just gurgly. Skies were calm with the occasional light rotating gust and 50F. Fall is here in full swing.
Take off, a little squirrely for me. I think it was a combination of things, loose tail wheel springs being a large factor, ground control when up on the power didn't feel locked in. Once the tail came up it wanted to go left. Tonight I re adjusted the tailwheel and tightened the springs, we will see if that helps.
Airborne it was nose heavy, nine clicks of up elevator. I later added 1.5oz of sticky weights in the tail and lowered it to seven clicks of up elevator. I'm thinking of moving the fuel tank aft to where the batteries are and maybe put the batteries next to the tank sides. With a half a tank and the sticky weights it's balancing level the aft side of the wing tube. I think shooting for 1/4" behind the wing tube would be ideal.
Flying on low rates, it felt like a big heavy responsive cub. Nothing special, slows down great with flaps and has a predictable sink rate. On low rates I did some stall tests, nose up no flaps/with a little flaps both with the same result. Nose would come down followed by a left wing drop and a spin. No joke. Fairly steep angle and a decent loss of altitude with a half turn. My guess is this has a lot to do with the CG/extra payload and If I were putting one together I would hang it from the tube and the tail should be below the nose. Mind you the stall tests are with a bit higher nose attitude and the plane coming in on final approach slows down nice, and feels good. Especially with a little bit of flaps it's very nice. Even at 40 degrees it has plenty of tail authority and doesn't balloon like crazy.
DLE55... I have not tried 3D with it. It will. Gobs of power. 1/2 throttle is all you need to fly the plane. It's a fairly high drag airframe and at full throttle it speeds up slowly but scoots along pretty darn fast. Ten minute flight with my 17oz tank left it just below half tank. Not bad. If you were flying 3D or up on the power that would be less, but sunday flying breaking in the motor... My timer was at 8min now it's at 11min.
2x Pulse 2250 2S batteries w/TechAero direct via Booma pin flag switch... After four ten minute flights both batteries were at 7.8V roughly 60% capacity left. I think that equated to a little less than 400mAh per flight. A lot like my 35cc 3D birds.
I will definitely need to get some more time on this bird, figure out my rudder control/p-factor, and CG.
I think 35-50cc is a great choice, I would love to get my hands on a GP38cc when ever it comes out to put in this birdie. So far I have no complaints with the DLE55, just that the plane is a little nose heavy with that extra HP up front and sprung gear.
I have some poor video I'll need to edit and post when I get a chance from the second flight. Till then, this is what I have to share :)
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
@AKNick have a question. On the Timber was just reading through the manual and this in regards to the rudder. The manual says set the horn on the rudder at 5/8 inch from centreline. Which is 1 1/4 across measured the rudder horns and they are 3 1/2 apart, does not make sense they should be the same if you want the cables to stay tight. What did you do. Also did you cross your wires or not.

Okay, so wires crossed, outer control horn holes, and a offset arm that is about 3.4" bolt to bolt.
 
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