3D Viper-ST 100-120cc scratch build......it continues!

[Terryscustom]

Yea, actually we just had one!! They are all sold out and we are cutting more though. We had offered $100 off and free shipping to Nall but the $100 off was for everyone. Now that we are headed towards building season I don't see any more sales on the horizon. Rick and I both have money and labor into each kit that is sold so when we offer a sale we split the amount we are taking off in half out of our profits.

I personally will never recoup the money I spent to develop this plane, it is purely for the love of the hobby and pure enjoyment for me. If we do offer a sale we will be sure to let you know!!

One thing I do know, we will probably have at least one kit for sale at the upcoming Corn-Huck in Council Bluffs / Omaha if someone wants to save on shipping! Also myself and Rick will be at the DesMoines IA Huckfest in Sept.

 

[jhelber08]

I completely understand that. If it turns out that you will have a kit to sell in Ky please let me know ahead of time and I will gladly purchase one then.

 

[Terryscustom]

That would only be if @Fibertech planes to go, I won't have room in my rig to hold anything since I won't drag a trailer that far. If he plans to go I'm sure he would bring you one!!

 

[Snoopy1]

Hi Terry do you have a dimension from the motor mounting plate to the back of the motor spinner please. Thanks.

 

[Terryscustom]

That dimension will vary slightly depending on if you need to make any adjustments when installing the cowl ring. Since you have a kit you can measure the depth of the cowl and measure the engine box sides from the front of the FW to the front of F-1. The difference is the base depth. All the suggested engines will fit with roughly a 3/4" to 7/8" standoff.

 

[Snoopy1]

Hi Terry question on the wing leading edge radius what is it and is it the same from the root to the tip. Thanks

 

[Terryscustom]

Hi Terry question on the wing leading edge radius what is it and is it the same from the root to the tip. Thanks

It's your choice. Only thing you will get is more crisp snaps and easier stall for 3D with a sharper edge, more blunt will postpone the stall. I go with a good medium. There is not enough room there to do anything wrong until you sand through.

 

[Snoopy1]

Hi @Terryscustom can you give some advice, in the process of buying a True-Turn spinner if the plane is built as you have described would you buy the light weight spinner or the standard one. Does the plane buil a little nose or tail heavy. The motor will be DA -100L. Once again thanks for the help. The spinner will 4 inch P51 style.

 

[Terryscustom]

Hi @Terryscustom can you give some advice, in the process of buying a True-Turn spinner if the plane is built as you have described would you buy the light weight spinner or the standard one. Does the plane buil a little nose or tail heavy. The motor will be DA -100L. Once again thanks for the help. The spinner will 4 inch P51 style.

Ugh, not the P-51 spinner!! LOL, your choice.

True Turn, Ultimate, lightened or solid plate (your choice) and MENZ cut. Top of the cowl plug was shaped with an Ultimate spinner on the front so it blends in. http://www.chiefaircraft.com/radio-...turn/ultimate-spinners/tru-4052-b-m-3w-l.html

 

[Terryscustom]

Also plane builds neutral depending on the builder I guess. If I design a plane and it's tail or nose heavy, something is fixed because that bugs me. One thing I recommend with all kit built planes is to do a full mock up with the sheeted parts, engine, etc. before covering and see how it comes out. You can always lighten sheeted parts by coring after sheeting and it shaves a bunch. Coring the belly pan is a perfect way, and even mild coring on the stabs and rudder saves a bunch. The one Viper I built and cored shaved over a half pound off.