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Pilot RC 122" Extra 330SC

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
Yeah, I'm getting a 100cc right now too, stang... I was trying to decide between a mini me (same scheme) on the Pilot Extra... getting the Pilot Edge instead... or some other plane.
Definitely will be the 100cc Purple and orange 330 for me.
I almost forgot to show you this. I have not had it happen to me but a friend who does a lot of pop tops had the rear turtle deck start to bend and by installing this it stops it from happening. View attachment 43586
Agreed...very good idea. Thanks for that Randy.
 

Joe Hunt

150cc
Well... I wanted to go fast on this one... really I did. ;) haha

Okay... like everyone nowadays, I guess, the pivot point of the control horn is over the hinge line (with the stock setup). The control horns are also like an inch away from the servo body. So, 1) I don't get bevel to bevel travel because I hit the control horn on the wing (but I probably get enough travel, so I can live with this one), 2) I don't get perfectly synchronized servos because I don't have fine adjustment on the control horns (it is possible with the 3 holes that I have perfect geometry but the hard points would have to have been slid back and forth until that was perfect, and I haven't seen where any manufacturer has done that yet, so I am just assuming this are not), which is sad because the Hitec servos are so perfectly linear and I wouldn't get to take advantage of that fact, but I could live with this one, as well. But, 3) I don't get proper leverage because of how far the control horn is away from the servo body. 3 strikes you're out! I'll have to put control horns in a better location. Although, I just want to do it wrong... but I just can't make myself. haha

20151025_203035.jpg 20151025_203044.jpg
 

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
Purple is good:D. I'm sure you can find or make appropriate length rods for the ball links. Start with the inboard servos at the outer most hole and the outboard servos at a lower hole placement. This should help with angular offset placement of the respective servos. That is what EF does at the factory to take multiple servo geometry in to account. The shorter horn is at the outboard location of the wing. As to the horn striking the wing or stab for extreme throws simply cut a notch for it to recede into.;)
 

thurmma

150cc
Start with the inboard servos at the outer most hole and the outboard servos at a lower hole placement. This should help with angular offset placement of the respective servos.

This is interesting. I have never heard of using different holes on different servos in a multi servo wing panel. I have always used the same hinge points on all connections and have never had an issue.

Enlighten me @49dimes :) Maybe I will run into a situation where this will help solve an issue one day if I know how to correctly make it work.
 

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
This is interesting. I have never heard of using different holes on different servos in a multi servo wing panel. I have always used the same hinge points on all connections and have never had an issue.

Enlighten me @49dimes :) Maybe I will run into a situation where this will help solve an issue one day if I know how to correctly make it work.

LoL neither did I until I put the EF 104 together. This may help if the Aileron has a taper to it across its length going outwards. Helps compensate for the aileron being thicker at the inboard side and thinner at the outboard side.
Now that I'm confused... understand??? Any way that's how it was explained to me! Did I mention I like engines!? lol
 

Joe Hunt

150cc
Okay, I looked at the hardpoint and I would have really had to change it to be happy with a bolt style control horn (e.g., DUBRO) like I put on the YakittyYak:

20150826_203657aaaweb.jpg

And, I was feeling too lazy to change the hardpoints so I used the stock control horns and setup the geometry the way I did on the Suk:

20150706_002540.jpg

So, here it is:

20151026_231004.jpg 20151026_231031.jpg 20151026_231235.jpg

I used the middle hole on the control horn on the inboard servo. And, the high hole on the control horn in the outboard servo. I'll check it tomorrow with a protractor and see how close that comes to correct. Probably not very, but you know... :)
 

Joe Hunt

150cc
Not really "like everyone", like Pilot is pretty much it. Two other main industry leading ARF mfg's that I know of actually have pretty fair and / or adjustable geometry.

HI TERRY! :) Tell me more! So far this summer I assembled the H9 Sukhoi (control horn pivot point over the hinge line, control horns drilled for approx. same height over the hinge line compensating for tapered wing/aileron, but not finely adjustable, and not able to offset for make throw), the AW Yak (pilot holes for control horn pivot point over the hinge line but not installed and adjustable for offset, 3 hole control horn for height adjustment due to tapering wings/ailerons but not finely adjustable), and this Pilot Extra which also has control horn pivot point over the hinge line and three holes for height adjustment due to the tapering wings/ailerons.

What H9 and Pilot don't give you is either 1) the control horns laterally in the correct place, or 2) and option to move them. You can mount the AW anywhere on the hard point. So with the AW you can get your leverage and your offset max throw correct. But, not your synchronization. None of the three offer perfect synchronization of servos as possible. Although, they are all probably relatively close. A bolt style control horn allows for fine adjustment and therefore perfect servo synchronization. It could be done with the style horns the three planes I mention use... but the manufacturers would have to understand it and work it out with the placement of the hardpoint.

Here's what I'm looking for in terms of leverage and side load vs pry load:

yak-qb_075.jpg yak-qb_076.jpg yak-qb_077.jpg yak-qb_078.jpg

Notice too, that I have my control horns wide spread for conicals. This should be standard, too.
 
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