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Basic engine tuning.

In the course of trying to dial in my little OS 33 I noticed in almost every example on the forums, a rear carb engine changing tune with orientation/gforces in flight the orientation corresponds with the position of the diaphragm plate. Outside of unbaffled yaks I'm not sure I found an example of a rear carb engine with an orientation problem that doesn't follow the position of the diaphragm plate. I'm not saying airflow doesn't cause or exacerbate tuning changes in the air, but if your rear carb engine is richer with the diaphragm plate facing up and leaner with it facing down it's likely gravity/Gforces on the diaphragm which are driving the issue. Especially if the tuning changes are almost instant.
It's gravity and Gforces acting on the diaphragm plate in the vast majority of cases for rear carbs. Carbs on twins mounted below the engine are somewhat immune to gravity/Gforces and susceptible to airflow because they point forward into the stream of air coming off the prop and are at their richest with the airframe in a vertical upline or when accelerating forward. Even if this orientation causes mixture changes in flight they happen to correspond to what the engine needs anyway so they may even run better this way.

E.g. DA 50s with the diaphragm plate facing up are at their richest position tuned on the ground and will go slightly lean in knife edge and a little more lean inverted and leaner still in a blender. Flip the carb around and they are at their leanest state of tune on the ground and will go rich in other orientations. Read the forums and you'll find people with the plate up have to tune it rich to keep it from dying in a blender and people with the plate down who tune it rich on the ground kill the engine in things like inverted elevators because it loads up. This relationship pops up with a bunch of different engines from lots of brands.

The fix is generally higher pop off pressure (stronger spring under the lever) to make the lever less susceptible to gravity/Gforces. To relate this to tuning a good practice would be to make note of the position of diaphragm plate and then test in flight for differential in tune between orientations and maneuvers where the plate is facing up or down and exposed to positive or negative G forces. If there's a difference in tune than apply that knowledge in your tuning strategy. Playing around with pop off pressure may fix or reduce the difference in tune with orientation, but just understanding and being able to predict where the plane will go lean or rich makes tuning easier.

E.g. if the plate faces up on the ground the tune will be at its richest when you tune it on the ground so it may need to be left slightly rich to account for it going lean in inverted maneuvers.

If the plate faces down it is at its leanest on the ground and should be tuned a little more aggressively otherwise it will go too rich inverted and load up at low throttle inverted.

If the plate faces sideways on the ground the tune won't change upright or inverted, but will be richer/leaner in opposite knife edge flight or hard rudder turns.

Based on the orientation of your diaphragm plate you can predict what maneuvers will kill the engine and incorporate that into a final tuning test. For the OS 33 with the carb facing up that would be things like full throttle inverted pulls into inverted uplines and blenders at various throttle settings.
 
So I changed back to pump gas recently and had a chance to do some actual flying yesterday. My low end is off now which is no big deal. I tuned on it a little but an approaching storm ended the day before I had it set again.

I was running VP SEF which is 94 octane before and now I'm running unbranded 91 octane without ethanol. I did mix in a little fuel stabilizer because the gas is almost a month old and I still have probably 7 or 8 flights worth. The weather this time of year here is crap for the most part and I won't have steady good flying weather until 6 weeks from now at the earliest.

I'm just curious if anyone else has experience with change in octane and change in needle settings.
 

jhelber08

70cc twin V2
I typically run 93 octane since around me my options are 87, 89, and then 93. I have been to a few far away events where I've had to re-fill my gas can and the only thing available was 91 for that given area and I never noticed a difference between that and 93.

I work offshore and am gone for 3 weeks at a time. Usually during my time home I try to fly my can empty so that when I return home I fill up with fresh gas. Usually there's a little bit left and that becomes weed killer and then I fill up with fresh gas when I start flying for the hitch home. I went through a bad spell about a year and a half ago that caused me a lot of grief with my engines (see my avatar too) and I believe it was fuel related. Now I'm pretty anal to fill up at the same gas station every time and to keep extra gas when I travel. A good piece of advice I was given was to try and fill up at a higher volume gas station so that you have a better chance of getting fresh gas and also avoid filling up if you know they've just had their storage tanks refilled as that can stir up debris.

On a non airplane related note with fuel stabilizer, that caused me some grief as well with my 4 wheeler. My 4 wheeler ran like a top for 12 years. I acquired some new toys along with a new lawn mower and started using stabilizer in all of my non airplane related gas guzzlers. Never had issues with the new stuff as it was ran with stabilizer from day 1 but it caused some carb issues with my 4 wheeler as the stabilizer started to break down varnish in the tank and fuel lines. I rebuilt/cleaned the carb a couple of times but issues kept occurring until the fuel tank was cleaned and fuel lines replaced. Just something to watch out for.
 
Interesting. I noticed something similar with both my mower and tiller. I ran fuel stabilizer in the gas and I would always run the engines out of fuel before going into storage. The mower did OK but took a good number of pulls and smoked like crazy on the first start up. The tiller required starting fluid and carb cleaner even though I ran it out of gas and used fuel that didn't have ethanol in it. The station I get that from has a good traffic flow through it but it is not crazy busy.

After that experience, I've only ran the VP SEF 4 stroke in the tiller and I've been switching my mower to SEF in late October when mowing is pretty much done. Both fire up no problem when I need them to now. But that's not practical on anything much bigger like a 4 wheeler.

I also use the Pre-mixed SEF in my trimmer and I have had no problems ever. I don't even have to choke it to get it to start at the beginning of the season. I just prime it and pump it 2 extra times and it starts in 5 pulls. Of course the extra priming really does away with the need to choke but it's still pretty easy to start.

So we're pretty dry here but getting into the rainy season. The issue I have is gas sits around for a long time this time of year because the it's so windy and there aren't enough hours in the day to burn an entire gallon of pump gas when it does get nice for a little bit and that's why I used the fuel stabilizer. I remember years ago before ethanol was in the fuel, the boat mechanics in Waco that my dad used tried to ignite gas that was 5 weeks old that came out of a fuel tank and it wouldn't even light up.

I might try mixing in another gallon of pump gas without ethanol with my current mix to dilute the fuel stabilizer and see how it does.
 

Bipeguy03

150cc
The biggest thing to remember is that Octane burns slow, which means the higher the octane level is like retarding your timing.

I had this issue a while back when running glow engines. My dad grew up running 15% nitro in all his engines, and the higher nitro content was like advancing the timing in the new engines kicking the prop bolts loose, popping and snorting and constantly chasing needles back and forth, tuning the engines was like trying to balance a bowling ball on a stick pin. lol

I can't tell you the type of fuel I run though, it always starts an argument lol
 
I went back and read the beginning of this thread. I'm going to make the top end richer now too because the engine is also going to a high idle before coming down to a good idle speed too.

I was also waiting 30 seconds between run ups because that's what we did when tuning 10 years ago when I got started in gas and I'm going to use the 10 second interval to tune the low too.

I got some stuff to work on but it shouldn't take too much to tune up again.
 
Richened the high end and got it pretty much tuned in today. I may have to adjust a little bit still but it's really close. When I come down from full throttle, it runs a little faster for 1 or 2 seconds and then comes down to a nice steady idle.
 

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
@Terryscustom on my GP61 when I first installed it in my Carf Extra I ended up with the needles way off of the 1.5 turns to make it run and perform correctly. I have always tuned very much like you said in your first post and was always pretty happy with my results. On the GP I started at 1.5 turns each, but it was so lean on the low side that you could choke it and it would pop, but off the choke it was too lean to start. I kept working the low richer until it would start, but it was too lean to take any throttle. I even tried richening the high needle because I know the effect each other some, but that didn't help. I ended up with the low needle at 2 3/8 turns to get a good transition. When I took in to the field I had to lean the high, and as it broke in I leaned the high even more. I ran about 3 gallons through it like that and it always ran great. smooth low idle, nice transition, great top end power with not a hint of a lean sag in an long upline.

About two weeks ago it quit running at about half throttle. After retrieving the airplane undamaged from a farmers field I tried restarting it and it started on the first flip or two and ran great. I changed out the tank and found a leaking fuel filter which I removed from the system since my new tank has a filtered clunk. I flew it last weekend and it was back to it's old good running self, except it had an odd sound at half throttle that gave me the impression it was a little lean. So, today I decided to take it up to my shop and tune on it a little before taking it flying tomorrow.

I decided to start from scratch on the tune, but I began by starting it with the settings I had. For some odd reason it took forever to get it to pop on the choke, but after that it started and ran fine. I just ran it a bit to get it warm, then shut it off. I check the needles and they were at 1 on the high and 2 3/8 on the low, then went back to 1.5 on each needle and it was just like the first time when I did the original tune with the low extremely lean. I ended with the low end at nearly 2 1/2 again.

Sorry to be so long winded, but I've decided to pull the carb off and have a look inside, and I was wondering if you might have any ideas what I should look for that would cause me to need such odd needle settings?
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
@Terryscustom on my GP61 when I first installed it in my Carf Extra .........................

I wish I could help more, I absolutely hate the carb that is used on the GP61, same carb on the KCS 62. If you do get the 61 to run right it seems like the midrange is always a mess with burble. I've tried to help a few guy's around here tune them and I gave up on that engine.
 
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