• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!
  • Unless you are a paid advertiser NO more posting advertisement in the individual vendor forums. You may post in the Manufacturer's Announcements section only but only ONCE a month unless your a paid advertiser.

71" AJ Slick Building, Flying, and Questions

gyro

GSN Contributor
This is the stuff. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-oz.?ref=gmc&gclid=CPfb_u3qkbYCFcdxQgodC2QAYg

You can get it at Autozone or whatever your favorite auto parts store is. Too bad you aren't close... the tube I have I'm sure will last my whole life.

This is what I read on the label:
Chemical / Solvent Resistance
The product retains effective properties in contact with automotive fluids, such as motor oil, transmission fluids, alcohol and antifreeze solutions. Note: Not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline.

(http://www.permatex.com/component/d...rmat=raw&filename=81878.pdf&market=automotive)

I suppose that the contact with gasoline is minimal however, right?

-G
 

ka9fax

30cc
This is the stuff. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-oz.?ref=gmc&gclid=CPfb_u3qkbYCFcdxQgodC2QAYg

You can get it at Autozone or whatever your favorite auto parts store is. Too bad you aren't close... the tube I have I'm sure will last my whole life.

yep...this is what i use, good to a temp of 700f. it also says (Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones) and (The best silicone for exhaust pipes, exhaust manifolds) gas will not be a problem sence or gas motors are not like the nitro ones the blow fuel out the pipe.
 

ka9fax

30cc
please do not worry about what the box says, the pic i sent u was right after i used the stuff, the plane was 1 year old. just last week i thought i was pressing my luck and felt i better chang my batts. and all fuel lines. the few pics im posting now is 3 years after using this stuff.....look how clean the motor is....no, i did no cleaning...lol just want to show how well it works. STA60006.jpgSTA60007.jpgSTA60008.jpg
 

ka9fax

30cc
i also use this, for u DA guys here is a bolt torque chart. i have it on Excel but i dont know how to paste it here. i can email it to antone interesed.

DA150 Case/ Mount M6x80 FH Steel 145
Stand-Offs DA50 M5x20 Steel 120
Motor Mount DA100 M6x16FH Steel 150
Carb Bolts DA50 M5x55 Aluminum 8 w/ blue loctite
Carb Bolts DA100/150 M5x50 Aluminum 50
Reed Block Screws M5x16 Aluminum 35
Prop Bolts .8 pitch thread M5x(optional) Steel 70
Igniton Sensor #4 x 3/8" Steel 10
Spark Plug 14MM Steel 60
Exhaust Bolts m5x16 Steel 100
Prop Shaft Extension Nut Custom Steel 38ft. Lbs.
Prop Bolts .8 pitch thread 6mm Steel 110-115
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
Just got two 15min flights in on my 71" Slick today, felt great to get out and fly this week... Even if it was only a short lunchtime session, glad I was able to fly with my friend Humberto.

Seems like the DLE-30 engine is breaking in VERY nicely! With 1.1 gallons (32:1 lawn boy) though, and 3 1/2 hours of flight time, the engine is developing a ton of power and speed on the 19x8 prop. I'm getting 3 rotations on my pop-tops now, it's really fun.
Thinking its about time to switch to the VP 40:1 power mix and really push the power up!
 
71" Slick - batteries for IMAC

Anyone here flown the 71" electric Slick, or similar sized plane, in IMAC? What was the battery setup you used to get the two sequences in? I'll be flying in Basic, which is the least demanding on time/power.

Motrolfly 4325-280 and ICE 100. I've got 2x 4000mah 4s to start with, but looking for what works best in practice.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Last edited by a moderator:

ka9fax

30cc
Hi,
this is just my thoughts on break in and what has worked for me, just throwing this out there, to think about. On any of our 2 stroke airplane engines, all you want to do during break-in is get the ring to conform and seal as perfectly as possible to the cylinder, they all use cast iron rings on a hard chrome plated bore. I know of only 2 manufacturers that recommend mineral oil for break-in and the reasoning is that mineral based oil has mild abrasives that will allow the rings to seat faster.

Mild or not, I'm not knowingly going to put abrasives of any kind into my engines, while these abrasives are grinding away on my rings and cylinders they are also doing the same to my crankshaft bearings, rod bearings, piston skirts, and wrist pins. There are also no weedie or chainsaw manufacturers that recommend this practice, I can wait a few more gallons of gas for a complete break-in to develope while preserving the rest of my engine's innards in as pristine a condition as possible.
 
Top