The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[Alky6]

I ran 9102's at 6 volts before. Sometimes they would jitter a bit but it soon stopped once the top of the battery charge was gone.
Good looking plane Paul. As far as the tank I think Central Hobbies carries those. Tetra tanks are the same way and that is what I used to use. @Alky6

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Thanks Kelly. Central isn’t carrying the MK tanks any longer (at least what I could find). Just Tettra and Dubro. Also appears as if the Hayes tanks have also been discontinued. Did you like the Tettra bladerless? Any issues keeping air of of them when refueling?

Thanks for the info on the 9102’s. Will give it a go. Thanks again.

 

[Alky6]

Great flying airplane.

That is fantastic to hear! Thanks!

 

[49dimes]

Thanks Kelly. Central isn’t carrying the MK tanks any longer (at least what I could find). Just Tettra and Dubro. Also appears as if the Hayes tanks have also been discontinued. Did you like the Tettra bladerless? Any issues keeping air of of them when refueling?

Thanks for the info on the 9102’s. Will give it a go. Thanks again.

Tettra's worked very well for me. Would hold the pressure and wont split open like a Dubro or Sullivan can. Just don't pull open the wrong fuel dot first or you may get a squirt in the face . And yes I have . And yes your welcome .
I have two Tettra tanks that I know I won't be using. They are yours for the asking. PM if you want them.
One is 10oz and the other 20oz. The 10oz was set up for bladder operation but I no longer have a bladder for it. You can still use as a "Crank Tank" as they call them for Crank Case Pressure.

 

[Snoopy1]

Had a good time running the Gaui 50cc four stroke engine yesterday. It ran great primed the engine by hand and then closed the choke hit the starter and it fired right up and died. Opened the choke and just a momentary touch on the starter and the engine was just sitting there at idle. And I must say at very low even and steady idle, just amazed. Just let it idle for a while to let the heat build up in the engine. Ran the engine up and down a couple of times and put it through a couple of heat cycles. Love the engine and boy is it quite, and I could get use to an electric starter it is nice to just push a button and it is running. Must say this is one beautifully built and finished engine in every way.

 

[Snoopy1]

It has been raining for the last couple of days and I thought I would try to build a simple balsa wood cowl out of sticks. Never done it this way but I thought it would be relateasy and quick. It will not be exactly perfect or beautiful but it will be functional and cover the motor and look a little better than no cowl at all, need to do this because once agin Horizon has stoped production of the Sundowner and there are no cowls available. This is the start.

 

[Alky6]

Tettra's worked very well for me. Would hold the pressure and wont split open like a Dubro or Sullivan can. Just don't pull open the wrong fuel dot first or you may get a squirt in the face . And yes I have . And yes your welcome .
I have two Tettra tanks that I know I won't be using. They are yours for the asking. PM if you want them.
One is 10oz and the other 20oz. The 10oz was set up for bladder operation but I no longer have a bladder for it. You can still use as a "Crank Tank" as they call them for Crank Case Pressure.

View attachment 104015

Thanks Kelly!!

 

[Xpress]

@Snoopy1 does Gaui suggest break-in on a test stand? I know for 2 stroke gas engines that's the worst thing you can do for them, since they don't have adequate cooling.

 

[acerc]

I know for 2 stroke gas engines that's the worst thing you can do for them, since they don't have adequate cooling.

You know, I hear a lot of people say this but I have always broke my engines in on a stand and they have never overheated. But I suppose if one let it set at idle for a long period it would. I don't do that, I bring them up to around 200°, run for 30 seconds at mid rpm, back to idle for about 10 secs, then mid rpm again, do this 3-4 time's then shut it down and let it cool off, then repeat until a gallon is burned. Then I tune it best one can on the ground, put it in an airframe and go fly. Usually after some flying some fine tuning is needed.

 

[Xpress]

You know, I hear a lot of people say this but I have always broke my engines in on a stand and they have never overheated. But I suppose if one let it set at idle for a long period it would. I don't do that, I bring them up to around 200°, run for 30 seconds at mid rpm, back to idle for about 10 secs, then mid rpm again, do this 3-4 time's then shut it down and let it cool off, then repeat until a gallon is burned. Then I tune it best one can on the ground, put it in an airframe and go fly. Usually after some flying some fine tuning is needed.

Gasoline engines have zero cooling from the fuel, unlike glow/nitro engines, so break-in is exceptionally hard on the engines. The only way to ensure adequate cooling is to actually fly the engine- no harm will ever be done to a brand spanking new gasoline engine if it is flown within its first 10 minutes of run time. What you want to do is heat cycle the engine, which running on the ground is ineffective at. 200F is fairly cool, you want it nearing 300F at WOT to help the rings seat well, otherwise it will either take longer for them to seat, or you may just wind up doing damage to the rings themselves. A lot of us from the glow days are so used to running the engines on the ground to break them in that it's hard to break the habit on gasoline engines, but gasoline engines are a totally different beast and have to be ran in differently.

As described to me by, well, pretty much everyone at Desert Aircraft (who, by the way, all gasoline engines are compared to), you want to bolt the engine to the airplane, start it and check your needle settings to ensure it will run on the rich side, and will maintain an idle. Once it does this on the ground, fly it. Do lots of uplines and downlines. If you get bored of just going hammerheads then mix in IMAC aerobatics. The full throttle/heating and idle/cooling is what helps the rings to set properly in a short amount of time. All 3 of my DA's and my ZDZ180 I've done this with and all of them ran like scalded apes Total run time on the ground for each engine was roughly 2 minutes or less.

 

[acerc]

To each his own, your way works for you, mine for me. I did not mention peaking higher than 200° for sake of others that try and do not know enough. I do mine in a controlled environment with tach's, temp gauges, and if needed added airflow by way of an A/C blower but have only needed it once. I have engine's ten years old still running like new, they are "not" DA, some are rather on the cheaper side.
When one builds scale the last thing one wants is all that break-in crud on their airframe. So break-in can easily be done prior to installing in the plane.