Hangar 9 3.1M Sukhoi

[Super08]

Not sure with what brand he is using. I know with Futaba they tell you not so as it needs to be in the open to cool properly. Love the checker plate covering.

 

[stangflyer]

Super08;15562 wrote: Not sure with what brand he is using. I know with Futaba they tell you not so as it needs to be in the open to cool properly. Love the checker plate covering.

Hitec Doug.... Haven't heard anything about heat issues on the receivers. I've actually been running them like this for some time with no problems. However, it is definitely worth double checking though. Come to think of it, the receiver on my 260 is totally unprotected. No problems there either. Guess I am just being overly cautious huh? Thank you for your input. Going to check on that.

 

[TnAeroNut]

Looks great. What is that plate material under the power board? Does it provide some cooling from the pipe tunnel, or is it just cosmetic? The power board is raised up off the pipe tunnel box - is that necessary? I'm assembling a plane with a pipe tunnel (canister, actually) for the first time ... how much do I need to worry about heat? I don't plan to use a power board (it's a 60cc Edge), but I assume it's still a good idea to mount the rx up off the tunnel?

 

[stangflyer]

TnAeroNut;15626 wrote: Looks great. What is that plate material under the power board? Does it provide some cooling from the pipe tunnel, or is it just cosmetic? The power board is raised up off the pipe tunnel box - is that necessary? I'm assembling a plane with a pipe tunnel (canister, actually) for the first time ... how much do I need to worry about heat? I don't plan to use a power board (it's a 60cc Edge), but I assume it's still a good idea to mount the rx up off the tunnel?

It's actually diamond plate covering. I really don't think it is going to help much for reflecting any heat. It is purely "bling". Your can tunnel won't get too terribly warm so long as it is vented really well. As for raising the Smart-Fly board and receiver, I did this to help with air flow around the board. I don't like it just laying straight on top of something like the can tunnel. Plus, it will help reduce any vibrations resonating through the air frame. You probably won't have to worry about too much heat. Just think it out. The can tunnel in my Slick and my Edge really don't get hot. You can however feel a little warmth in the fuse. If you're just using your rx, I would try to place it away from direct heat sources at all costs.

 

[stangflyer]

Super08;15562 wrote: Not sure with what brand he is using. I know with Futaba they tell you not so as it needs to be in the open to cool properly. Love the checker plate covering.

Have to admit, I can sometimes be really "Old school" and set in my ways. Sometimes we all fall into a comfort zone and just keep doing what we've always done. I did a little reading and research....Hmmm! Guess I will be removing the foam from the receiver. Thanks Doug!!!

 

[Robotech]

All you want/need is a single layer of dense foam under the RX. Anything more is superfluous.



Great installation. Nice and neat. I like neat.

 

[stangflyer]

Robotech;15806 wrote: All you want/need is a single layer of dense foam under the RX. Anything more is superfluous.



Great installation. Nice and neat. I like neat.

Thanks Robo.... I like neat and tidy as well. I think I will set my rx up the same way I have my 260 set up. Rx right on top of the Smart-Fly Power Expander. Only have 27 flights on her now...(5 yesterday) but not a single problem. Looks pretty cool too.



Stabs now complete and functional. Dang, this is going to be so much fun. All this "coolness" in one plane. Almost too much for me to handle. LOL

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[stangflyer]

Ok, changed up the receiver set up. I actually did not like it the way it was.... Guess we're all happy now right? LOL....

Stabs done....Check., Rudder done....Check.

I didn't like the way the manual says to attach the rudder hinge wire. Plus since I chose to use a different tail wheel assembly, I designed my own madness. I started by bending the hinge wire 90 degrees in two points. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the rudder just large enough for the shortest and closest to the end bend. Drilled two other holes for a hold down strap. Hardened with CA and waa la. If in the event I ever need to remove the rudder, I don't have to remove the tail gear, (that was supposed to be holding it in place) and it is easily replaced. Oh, by the way...for those of you that fought the hinge wire? I thought, "Now how hard can that be"? Hee hee....what a pain in the ass. But after 15 minutes, got it to slide through....:fist-pump-and-yes-s



Next up....wing servos and multiplex plug wiring.

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[stangflyer]

Tank plumbed and installed. Not much more left to do. Other than motor up front, canisters, spinner and flight packs. Really looking forward to getting this in the air. Included a couple of photos of the "brotha's" side by side.

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[stangflyer]

Not only intended for Sukhoi owners and flyers, but everyone should see this. For those of you who have not, A treat worth seeing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3m9DlWAjrI