DLE 35RA Muffler bolts

[wfahey415]

For muffler bolts I just have to add what I do as a non-certified and non-expert anything but this works for me. I picked it up from a 3dhs thread on rcg a few years ago and have been doing it ever since with good success. I have never had the muffler bolts come loose on my DLE35RA. The one time I thought they had it turned out to be the aluminum failed and broke around the bolts. The muffler had been through a pretty hard crash that fatigued the metal.

Anyway, I use ultra copper rtv as a gasket and in place of loctite on the bolts. It works amazingly well and guys are even getting by using it on much larger displacement without nordlocks.

Just thought I'd toss it out there as a non expert option that I have seen work for me and some others

I am glad you brought this up. One of the guys at the flying field said the same thing. I thought about it this morning and was going to post it here to see what others thought. I was in Lowe's last night and bought some 5mm x .8 x 30mm bolts. They were a tick long so I cut off about 5mm to get them the right size. In case you are wondering, Lowe's didn't have 25mm bolts and I am a bit thin on the patience side. They were also out of red Loctite. So I am liking this idea of using the RTV on the whole shebang.

 

[Matt Goethe]

Wish I saw this about 3 weeks ago. Just finishing my first gallon through the 35RA engine and started having some trouble starting up. Figured I leaned it out too much I put it back to factory settings. Engine started good but about 5 minutes into my flight after a short hover the engine started losing power and I ended up pancaking the plane. Muffler was completely loose in the cowl. Fortunately the only damage was the LG.

Set up now is High Temp Red RTV gasket, lock washer and Teflon tape on the threads (tip from guy at the field). And I check the muffler before and after every flight.

 

[wfahey415]

It is back together. I used the rtv on the threads this time and I installed lock washers. Now, I said I would upload a photo of the cowl too so that is attached. I think you can make it out in the photo that there is an airdam to create the low pressure to help suck air out of the cowl. Should I open the are around the exhaust tubes more or do you think it is adequate?

 

[AKNick]

Can you upload a pic of the inlet too? It should work but maybe borderline small.

 

[wfahey415]

Here is the front.

 

[AKNick]

I would personally say that the outlet is too small in comparison to the openings. Will it work as is... probably. If you wanted to you could blank off the two cowling ears to help with the ratio.

You should be able to fly the plane for a flight, put your finger on the nose of the crankcase (the part that doesn't rotate just behind the prop), you should be able to keep it there without burning your finger, if you do... it's getting too hot/lean.

Just my opinion! See what others think.

 

[jakeg1999]

I agree aith AKNick, very clean install, but your intake opening area is quite a bit larger that the outflow openings.

 

[3dNater]

I agree. That cowl has a ton of open space in the front. Like [MENTION=3929]AKNick[/MENTION] said, you could blank out one or both of the ears in the cowl. Blank them both unless you need one open to access the choke. Even then I would expand the size of the opening around the pipes. I was going to say double it, but would probably not want to if it were me for looks.

 

[wfahey415]

Thanks guys. I am going to open it up in front of the down tubes in hopes of getting more air over the cylinder head and out of the cowl. I do access the choke rod through one of the cowl ears but have thought about putting in foam baffles to direct the airflow. I will open the bottom first and see how that works. Baffles if necessary.

Thanks again.

 

[wfahey415]

New Opening. Feedback is always welcome.