Aerobeez
70cc twin V2
Hello Pilots and Builders!
People have asked for more detailed build manuals or guides for our models, so we have been busy developing Step-by-Step build guides for our models. The one that we will be introducing to you all here on 3DRCF covers the build steps for our 71" Extra 330.
So, without further ado, welcome to our 71" Extra 330 Build Guide! This guide will walk you through step by step as you build your new 71? Extra 330 ARF Kit. Having experience with putting an ARF together is good, but with our guide even an inexperienced builder should be able to put this kit together in about 10-12 hours. Look for "Pete's Tip's" and our notes that will help walk you through this build like a seasoned pro.
This build log is Pete's personal build steps. You may choose to build in different steps if you have a personal build preference.
Now lets get started building!
Step 1: We will start the build by first constructing the landing gear. Locate the parts for the main landing gear and lay it out on a flat surface. The parts needed to build the main landing gear may be in 2 separate parts bags.
Step 2: Notice the carbon landing gear is tapered on one side. The straight side is facing the front of Extra 330.
Step 3: Separate the wheel collars and axle nut from the main axle.
Step 4: Install the axle to the carbon fiber landing gear.
Pete's Tip: If you have a "skate tool" the multi tool used for skateboards, the wheel nut side of the tool is perfect size for the axle nut.
Step 5: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on the wheel collar set screws and install the main wheel with one wheel collar on each side. Do not tighten the wheel collars. The wheel collar gaps will need to be adjusted once the wheel pants are installed.
Pete's Tip: Keep the set screw side of the wheel collar facing down as shown in the photos. This will give you the best position to reach the collar set screw once the wheel pants are installed.
Step 6: Have the wheel pants ready for installation. The blind nuts are pre-installed for you.
Step 7: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on the wheel pant screws. Install the wheel pants.
Step 8: Wheel pants installed.
Step 9: Locate the 4 bolts with the lock nuts to install the main landing gear to the fuselage.
Step 10: Install the lock nuts.
Pete's Tip: If you have a difficult time reaching the landing gear bolts on the inside of the fuselage, use a small piece of blue tape, or any house hold tape. Roll it over and stick the tape to your finger tip. Then stick the lock nut to the tape. This will make starting the bolt to the nut sequence much easier.
Step 11: Landing gear installed.
Step 12: Your Extra 330 on landing gears.
Step 13: Wick the motor box.
Pete's Tip: Use thin or medium CA and "wick" the CA into the motor box sides where all the wood connects. Medium CA is better for the inside of the motor box. This CA works best for "wicking".
Step 14: Use a drop of house hold oil on the pivot hinges for the rudder. This will keep the pivot from getting glued during the rudder installation.
Pete's Tip: If you do not have any house hold oil, a drop of cooking oil or even motor oil will work fine.
Step 15: Epoxy is the glue of choice when installing the rudder. Be sure to glue the pivot hinges to one side of the rudder FIRST. Let it fully cure before gluing to the vertical stabilizer.
Step 16: Locate the tail wheel assembly. Located in 2 or 3 separate bags.
Step 17: Install the nut and the tail wheel guide shown in this photo.
Step 18: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on all the set screws used.
Step 19: Tail wheel assembly complete.
Pete's Tip: There will be some vertical "slop" in the tail wheel assembly. This does not affect the performance or function of the tail wheel. If you are picky like Pete, you can add either a extra wheel collar if you have one, or cut a small section of the Tygon fuel tube and place it in the area as shown in this photo. This will remove all the vertical movement.
Step 20: Use a small tip marker and mark the position the tail landing gear assembly will mount to the rear of the fuselage.
Step 21: This step is an option. Pete like to use a 1/16 drill bit to drill the 3 pilot holes for the tail wheel assembly. The screws provided are self tapping screws and can be directly screwed into the fuselage without pilot holes.
Step 22: Install the tail wheel assembly to the fuselage.
Step 23: Locate the tail wheel rod guide. Drill and install the tail wheel rod guide and rod.
Step 24: Your Extra 330 on main and tail landing gear.
Step 25: Test fit your rudder servo of choice into the rudder servo bay inside of the fuselage.
Step 26: Drill 1/16 pilot holes for the rudder servo.
Pete's Tip: Use a drop of thin CA in each of the drilled servo screw pilot holes. This will give the servo screws much higher strength to wood hold ratio. This pilot hole and CA wicking step should be used for all the servo installs on this Extra330. Allow the CA to completely cure before installing the servo screws.
Step 27: Rudder servo installed. Use a rudder pull pull arm of your choice.
Step 28: Locate the control surface arms. The pull/pull application for the rudder control surface arms will need to be cut 2 step tabs shorter as shown on the marks in this photo.
Step 29: Locate the pre-cut slots for the control surface horns.
Pete's Tip: Use your finger and press in the general area with some pressure. This will reveal the slots. Use a sharp hobby knife and remove the covering.
Step 30: Use sandpaper or a electric rotary tool and "scuff" the area to be glued on the control surface horns. This "scuffing" should be applied to all the control surface horns. This will provide a stronger horn to surface bond.
Step 31: Use Epoxy and glue the control surface horns to the rudder.
Step 32: Locate the parts for the rudder pull/pull cables. The parts may be in separate bags.
Step 33: Install the threaded rods to ball ends as shown here. Do not over tight the rod at this time. Leave plenty of thread for adjusting the pull/pull cable length.
Step 34: Use a piece of blue tape or masking tape and tape the rudder to the vertical stabilizer. This will prevent the pull/pull cables from being cut and crimped in the wrong length.
People have asked for more detailed build manuals or guides for our models, so we have been busy developing Step-by-Step build guides for our models. The one that we will be introducing to you all here on 3DRCF covers the build steps for our 71" Extra 330.
So, without further ado, welcome to our 71" Extra 330 Build Guide! This guide will walk you through step by step as you build your new 71? Extra 330 ARF Kit. Having experience with putting an ARF together is good, but with our guide even an inexperienced builder should be able to put this kit together in about 10-12 hours. Look for "Pete's Tip's" and our notes that will help walk you through this build like a seasoned pro.
This build log is Pete's personal build steps. You may choose to build in different steps if you have a personal build preference.
Now lets get started building!
Step 1: We will start the build by first constructing the landing gear. Locate the parts for the main landing gear and lay it out on a flat surface. The parts needed to build the main landing gear may be in 2 separate parts bags.
Step 2: Notice the carbon landing gear is tapered on one side. The straight side is facing the front of Extra 330.
Step 3: Separate the wheel collars and axle nut from the main axle.
Step 4: Install the axle to the carbon fiber landing gear.
Pete's Tip: If you have a "skate tool" the multi tool used for skateboards, the wheel nut side of the tool is perfect size for the axle nut.
Step 5: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on the wheel collar set screws and install the main wheel with one wheel collar on each side. Do not tighten the wheel collars. The wheel collar gaps will need to be adjusted once the wheel pants are installed.
Pete's Tip: Keep the set screw side of the wheel collar facing down as shown in the photos. This will give you the best position to reach the collar set screw once the wheel pants are installed.
Step 6: Have the wheel pants ready for installation. The blind nuts are pre-installed for you.
Step 7: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on the wheel pant screws. Install the wheel pants.
Step 8: Wheel pants installed.
Step 9: Locate the 4 bolts with the lock nuts to install the main landing gear to the fuselage.
Step 10: Install the lock nuts.
Pete's Tip: If you have a difficult time reaching the landing gear bolts on the inside of the fuselage, use a small piece of blue tape, or any house hold tape. Roll it over and stick the tape to your finger tip. Then stick the lock nut to the tape. This will make starting the bolt to the nut sequence much easier.
Step 11: Landing gear installed.
Step 12: Your Extra 330 on landing gears.
Step 13: Wick the motor box.
Pete's Tip: Use thin or medium CA and "wick" the CA into the motor box sides where all the wood connects. Medium CA is better for the inside of the motor box. This CA works best for "wicking".
Step 14: Use a drop of house hold oil on the pivot hinges for the rudder. This will keep the pivot from getting glued during the rudder installation.
Pete's Tip: If you do not have any house hold oil, a drop of cooking oil or even motor oil will work fine.
Step 15: Epoxy is the glue of choice when installing the rudder. Be sure to glue the pivot hinges to one side of the rudder FIRST. Let it fully cure before gluing to the vertical stabilizer.
Step 16: Locate the tail wheel assembly. Located in 2 or 3 separate bags.
Step 17: Install the nut and the tail wheel guide shown in this photo.
Step 18: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on all the set screws used.
Step 19: Tail wheel assembly complete.
Pete's Tip: There will be some vertical "slop" in the tail wheel assembly. This does not affect the performance or function of the tail wheel. If you are picky like Pete, you can add either a extra wheel collar if you have one, or cut a small section of the Tygon fuel tube and place it in the area as shown in this photo. This will remove all the vertical movement.
Step 20: Use a small tip marker and mark the position the tail landing gear assembly will mount to the rear of the fuselage.
Step 21: This step is an option. Pete like to use a 1/16 drill bit to drill the 3 pilot holes for the tail wheel assembly. The screws provided are self tapping screws and can be directly screwed into the fuselage without pilot holes.
Step 22: Install the tail wheel assembly to the fuselage.
Step 23: Locate the tail wheel rod guide. Drill and install the tail wheel rod guide and rod.
Step 24: Your Extra 330 on main and tail landing gear.
Step 25: Test fit your rudder servo of choice into the rudder servo bay inside of the fuselage.
Step 26: Drill 1/16 pilot holes for the rudder servo.
Pete's Tip: Use a drop of thin CA in each of the drilled servo screw pilot holes. This will give the servo screws much higher strength to wood hold ratio. This pilot hole and CA wicking step should be used for all the servo installs on this Extra330. Allow the CA to completely cure before installing the servo screws.
Step 27: Rudder servo installed. Use a rudder pull pull arm of your choice.
Step 28: Locate the control surface arms. The pull/pull application for the rudder control surface arms will need to be cut 2 step tabs shorter as shown on the marks in this photo.
Step 29: Locate the pre-cut slots for the control surface horns.
Pete's Tip: Use your finger and press in the general area with some pressure. This will reveal the slots. Use a sharp hobby knife and remove the covering.
Step 30: Use sandpaper or a electric rotary tool and "scuff" the area to be glued on the control surface horns. This "scuffing" should be applied to all the control surface horns. This will provide a stronger horn to surface bond.
Step 31: Use Epoxy and glue the control surface horns to the rudder.
Step 32: Locate the parts for the rudder pull/pull cables. The parts may be in separate bags.
Step 33: Install the threaded rods to ball ends as shown here. Do not over tight the rod at this time. Leave plenty of thread for adjusting the pull/pull cable length.
Step 34: Use a piece of blue tape or masking tape and tape the rudder to the vertical stabilizer. This will prevent the pull/pull cables from being cut and crimped in the wrong length.
. The hardware kit looks decent. All in all, it looks like a nice Solid kit. Well done on all the hard work. I know first hand how much effort goes into documenting a build. AKf
