Scale 1/3 Scale Extra 330L Build.

[Snoopy1]

Just a point of interest. This concerns gas tanks and fuel lines. Fuel lines has been a pain in the past, especially transparent yellow tygon. Did use Viton for a while especially inside the tank and then standard tygon for the rest. Must say Viton never got hard or showed any degradation, but it did split several times at the nipple. So about three years ago while I was at JoeNall I was introduced to PorFlex. All I can say will never use anything else, it has performed flawlessly, only complaint is that is not cheap. Use it on all my lines except the overflow and vent. What is your experience and has anyone else used ProFlex.

 

[TonyHallo]

No I have not, but I don use Viton from McMaster Carr, never had a problem with 1/8" Viton and 5/32" tubing. Can't image how you split it? I use the Sullivan Viton stoppers as well. Lately I've made my own tanks out of water bottles, copper sheet and 5/32" brass tube. Cut a hole in the cap and fit a copper sheet, then solder in the three lines. I prefer three line tanks. There's a thread over on FG and you can find many options about the subject, of course everybody has their own way of doing things but what ever works. I see Proflex is a Sullivan product, wonder what material is made from?

 

[Snoopy1]

No I have not, but I don use Viton from McMaster Carr, never had a problem with 1/8" Viton and 5/32" tubing. Can't image how you split it? I use the Sullivan Viton stoppers as well. Lately I've made my own tanks out of water bottles, copper sheet and 5/32" brass tube. Cut a hole in the cap and fit a copper sheet, then solder in the three lines. I prefer three line tanks. There's a thread over on FG and you can find many options about the subject, of course everybody has their own way of doing things but what ever works. I see Proflex is a Sullivan product, wonder what material is made from?

You are correct it is a Sullivan product. The only thing that someone mentioned to me is the Viton I was using was the wrong hardness. But never found out what the correct hardness should be, which makes sense. At the time when looking at buying more Viton could never find out the hardness I was buying.
One thing it is very difficult to deal with McMaster Carr from Canada they just do not want to mail stuff to us.

 

[TonyHallo]

I use the soft tubing 60A durometer, 1/8" x 1/4". Too bad dealing with McMaster Carr in Canada is a problem, to me they are just like Amazon Prime, order today here tomorrow. I see the MC price is $6.60 a foot for the Viton, based on my searches, the Sullivan Proflex is cheaper.
I do remember what a pain the old Buna N stuff was.

 

[Snoopy1]

I use the soft tubing 60A durometer, 1/8" x 1/4". Too bad dealing with McMaster Carr in Canada is a problem, to me they are just like Amazon Prime, order today here tomorrow. I see the MC price is $6.60 a foot for the Viton, based on my searches, the Sullivan Proflex is cheaper.
I do remember what a pain the old Buna N stuff was.

Thanks for info on the 60A Durometer. Will keeping my eye out for some if I go JoeNull I might find some.
yes Buna N was horrible.

 

[Snoopy1]

Ok did something I would never do but I did. Drilled and taped a 3mm hole on one of my cylinder heads to mount a temperature sensor. Kind of excited about that never had temperature feed back on a plane. Will set it at 300 F for alarm.

 

[TonyHallo]

I use 10 mm lugs purchased from Newark for plug temperature, the thermistor wire is folded back and the bulb is lightly crimped and the wires are crimped then finished off with heat shrink.

 

[Snoopy1]

I have seen it done under the spark plug. All I can say from many years ago when we were developing 50cc motor bike engines in the early seventies for racing. When we were instrumenting the engines for testing to destruction the thermal sensor under plug was not the most useful. Don’t get me wrong my location is not ideal either, the best I can do with the tools and what I was willing to do to the engine. It work as a good indicator instead of being totally blind. The best location we found at the time that indicated when the engine was about to fail was against the cylinder wall just above the exhaust, and a dimple was drilled into the wall and then cemented in.
But I have to agree with you that your location is better than the one I picked.

 

[TonyHallo]

The best thing is that it is non evasive method. I have a ZDZ 80 RV with a sensor on each side of rear of the head. The engine is mounted about 20 degrees below the center line. I have the cylinder ducted and top side in the clean air flow runs 100 degrees cooler than the bottom side.

 

[Snoopy1]

The best thing is that it is non evasive method. I have a ZDZ 80 RV with a sensor on each side of rear of the head. The engine is mounted about 20 degrees below the center line. I have the cylinder ducted and top side in the clean air flow runs 100 degrees cooler than the bottom side.View attachment 120798

Like that nice clean install.