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Idea! Homemade Side Force Generators

3dcarter

50cc
Well, I got bored one day and decided my 50CC Yak 54 needed some side force generators. I got the plans off of GiantScaleNews (sorry), and then took an 8.5"x11" piece of paper, and with a popsicle stick (to get the curve), a straight edge, and some sketching, I was able to come up with my own SFG's. I orginially folded the paper in half to get the same thing on both sides. Once i had that, I superimposed them onto some 3/16" plywood, and cut them out using my dremel. Then, I covered them to match the pretty blue on the plane, and then mounted them. I used two threaded nut inserts in each wingtip, very much like the Hangar 9 Carden Yak 54 100cc. this way, I didn't have to cut the wing-tips at all.

report: they work ridiculously well. upright harriers are much more stable, and no wing rock at all. knife edges only take slight rudder to do a straight KE. overall, i'm very happy with them. If anyone wants the design, I'd be happy to scan it to my computer and send it to you.
 

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gyro

GSN Contributor
One of our site's regional ambassadors, [MENTION=4]3dNater[/MENTION] did a similar job on his 35cc Aerobeez Yak, but he flattened the wing tips and added a mounting block.

Nate, maybe you post your work here so we can consolidate?
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Ok guys I am finally getting around to working on this plane. Once we got the balance about right I wanted to start hucking it. I soon found out that while it excels at high energy flying the low and slow has a bit to be desired.

The wing rock in harrier is quite scary. I asked Pete about it and he mentioned that the wing rock subsides quite a bit with a little higher angle of attack. I have not had a chance to try that yet but I will on my next outing for sure.

Brigg and I discussed some things that may be contributing to the instability in harrier and I also got some input from Gary. The consensus is that it could be a combination of the rounded wing tips, short wing chord at the tips (which also makes it roll super fast), and just the fact that it is a yak. All of us agree that these issues could be addressed with some sfg's. The kit comes with some that are supposed to be installed on the top of the wing. The only problem is that they do not come with any instructions and there Is no intuitively marked location for them such as pre-lasered slots. Another issue is that the only come into play for the top of the wing. In an ipright harrier it doesn't seem like they would do much. Brigg and I came up with a plan to make some new sfg's for the wingtips.

First we designed them in corel draw. Brigg did all the real work there as I have about zero cad skills... but I looked over his shoulder and made a few meaningful conceptual contributions that were probably totally obvious to Brigg already lol. The items created included the wing chord shape at the tip from the aileron hinge line to the leading edge and the actual sfg shape. These items had corresponding locations for blind nuts to line up.

Once the drawings were completed we sent them to the laser. So far we are into the project maybe two hours.

Here is a link to a video of laser cutting with a littke dialogue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChVpxpkm4og&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The blocks the sfg attaches to is just basswood but we also marked a piece of plywood. The idea was to install the blind nuts in the basswood and then cover them with the ply so they weren't in the way when it was time to glue the blocks on. We made recesses in the ply with a forsner bit to recieve the back side of the blind nuts. Then we glued the basswood pieces to the ply.

Now that the blocks were made it was time to actually cut the wing tips. We wanted to cut them so that when we glued on the blocks there would be a small gap for the ailerons to have clearance from the sfg's. We made a template of the angle of the hinge line and the wing tip. We printed it on 11x14 paper... bigger is better :) the template was just a quick drawing in corel from a picture I took of the wing. We taped the template on the wing and made the cut on a scroll saw.
uploadfromtaptalk1387000966277.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1387001014217.jpg

The stock wingtip is a decent sized balsa block so there was still plenty of meat to glue to. To give it more strength we used wood glue and a couple of 1/4" dowels. We marked drilled for the dowels on the blocks being careful not to catch the flange of the blind nuts. Then we moved the drilled blocks to the wingtip to drill it. Drilling through the blocks ensured the holes would match up perfectly. We then applied glue and inserted the dowels.

uploadfromtaptalk1387001361908.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1387001391588.jpg

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The sfg's attach to the blocks with small nylon bolts.

uploadfromtaptalk1387001473088.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1387001496885.jpg
Now it is time to try them out!
 

ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
I made some for my PAU ARC 30 Edge. I used some I had off of an EF 78" extra. I put balsa sheeting on 1 side and they are strong as can be.
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
I made some for my PAU ARC 30 Edge. I used some I had off of an EF 78" extra. I put balsa sheeting on 1 side and they are strong as can be.

testing out one of our new emoticons:

:needpics:


seriously tho, would love to see pics of your project and installation!
 
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