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DLE 35 RA Mods- Reed Valve, Bowman Ring, Single Post prop adapter

Discussion in 'Gas Engines' started by dth7, Jun 14, 2013.

  1. dth7

    dth7 3DRCF Regional Ambassador

    Here are the photos and a short explanation of the Reed valve mod and the Bowman ring installation for the DLE 35RA. I purchased a Bowman ring from Frank Bowman. He includes instructions for the reed valve mod as well (recommended for all China engines). I also purchased a gasket set just in case. We only had to use one.

    The other difference you will see is the single shaft prop adapter from Valley View. It involves removing and cutting the existing prop shaft and installing the steel single post. Instructions available via .pdf on the site, very straight forward. Will make prop changes a breeze.


    Attach 320 grit wet dry (400 to finish) to a piece of glass or mirror. The flatter the better.

    > Remove the carb trying not to tear gasket (same for all removal steps).


    > Mark each side of the reed valve (we used a sharpie that later rinsed off with a gas wash). Remove and set aside.

    > Begin lightly sanding the Reed bracket smooth. The goal is to have as smooth a surface as possible for the reed to rest on providing the greatest suction for fuel draw (this is where the starting problems are caused). You will notice that the plastic/ composite and cast surfaces are quite rough.


    > Also sand and polish the carb to eliminate any possible air leaks.

    >The Bowman Ring install is straight forward and Frank provides a very good instruction sheet.


    We finished by applying Copper gasket silicone to the carb and reed valve seals.

    It may be over kill but here's the thinking. I've seen starting issues with the DLEs and when warm they do better. When cold the reeds are laying against rough unpolished surfaces. When warm they are able so seat much better. Air leaks kill consistent performance and reliability so why not try to eliminate it with a little time and very little money.

    I'll be reporting how it all works as we move to tune up and break in.

    We will begin with the stock muffler (since I'm waiting on a header anyway!) to allow for a good base line comparison. It will also give the engine a little easier break in. Can't wait to hang the engine and fly the 78!:bouncy:
  2. Cool thanks for sharing that I've got something to do tonight now.
  3. Great thanks for the pics, looking forward to the test report
  4. dth7

    dth7 3DRCF Regional Ambassador

    Thanks has to go to Cody for his continued support and help:thumbup:. Something like this can't hurt so why not use an ounce of prevention. I'm really trying to make my first gas experience a "fuel, flip and fly" operation. I know with this hobby that's a pipe dream but can't blame a guy for tryin!
  5. cap232

    cap232 50cc

    Awesome mod article
    I have a dle 35 looking to do this in the future
    thanks for showing us

  6. Great info. I've heard a lot about this. Will be interesting to see what it does to the performance.

    What does the kit cost?
  7. gyro

    gyro GSN Contributor

    The bowman ring is about $15 shipped. If you have the sandpaper for the reed block, that's the only expense.... (At least for when I did mine in the DLE30)
  8. dth7

    dth7 3DRCF Regional Ambassador

    That's it. Mostly taking the time to do the preventative preemptive maintenance. I hope it pays off. I can't see how it won't.
  9. 3dNater

    3dNater 3DRCF Regional Ambassador

    Great work, you are going to love this engine :D I am really loving mine :D. I would encourage anyone out there to do these mods. They are simple and easy. I don't think the bowman ring was necessary, but it will certainly not hurt anything. My stock ring has delivered nice performance and I think I'm safe to say it is completely broken in after about 2 gallons. The Bowman ring is very nice for providing a little more compression and shorter break-in but I don't want anyone to think their engine is going to have inferior performance with the stock ring. Mine has been great.

    I have done the reed block mods before although I did not do them on the DLE 35. I think it is an excellent exercise and a simple way to get better performance. The only reason I didn't do them on mine is that the carb was so stinking hard to get off. VVRC must have gone through and put some red loctite in there and I couldn't get the bolts loose without heating them so I just threw the engine on the plane to see how it ran. I was pleasantly surprised by easy starting and reliable smooth idle from the very beginning so I never took the engine back off to do any of this kind of work. So in my case I am simply keeping it simple. Since it wasn't broke, I am not fixing it. Every engine is going to be slightly different though, so if taking the carb off initially isn't a challenge I would encourage doing these mods. At the very least, it won't hurt anything, and it might end up making all the difference.
  10. dth7

    dth7 3DRCF Regional Ambassador

    Thanks, good advice. I'm trying to err to the conservative. I had heard some stories and witnessed some DLE starting issues when cold. Reading the reed block mod it made sense. More seal, less or no air leaks, more suction and easier starting. That's what I'm talking about. It's great that quite a few people are having great luck stock. Perhaps QC is improving or it was a good run of engines. Whatever the case the goal is easy operation, good performance and reliability.

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