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Discussion Attempting applying monokot over ultracote with Windex

ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
I finished up my PAU ARC late this last summer and got her in the air. I used some old black covering I had lying around for the bottom of the wings. Well, apparently it was really old as it started to peel off. While deciding what design to use when recovering, a friend said I should try the windex trick because I was using Monokote. I thought what the heck and tried it. After cleaning the wings I decided to do thick stripes with a solid leading edge stripe. I cut all the stripes and got out the windex. I spritzed the area where I was going to put a stripe and applied the monokote. I trimmed the ends about 1" past the edge of the wing so the extra would not pull it out of place. Next was to let it dry overnight.
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ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
Today after about 20 hours, I tested the adhesion. It was not the best so I got the sealing iron out and went to work. I sealed all of the edges and trimmed everything. I am happy with the final results. The windex alone would not have worked for me. I did like the fact that with the windex, I was able to place everything just where I wanted it. Sealing was a breeze also as it all stayed put while I was sealing it.

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gyro

GSN Contributor
so in my ignorance to this technique, I'm guessing the ammonia in the Windex helps activate the glue without the heat, thereby mitigating the different temp requirements of the differing covering types?
 

ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
That is what I was told. It is supposed to work with Monokot, but in my case it really didn't stick it down. Maybe I didn't wait long enough. It did help hold it in place so ironing it on went very well. No bubbles with the iron, so it was a success.
 

rcdude07

70cc twin V2
I've never done the Windex trick. When I have to repair a covering hole, I use rubbing alcohol to clean the overlap areas. Let it dry. Then I tack down one side of the new section of Monokote, hold it taught and straight, run the iron down the length of the patch avoiding the opening/hole (using standard technique of slow, but not too slow). Then go back and hit all the corners. Then place the iron over the hole to do an initial shrink, and come back with a heat gun to finalize the shrink. Dad has done it this way for 30+ years with no issues.

When I do a new covering job and do overlapping colors, I follow the same steps as above.
 

ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
I agree. Just needed some stripes on the bottom of the wings. Thought I would give it a try, and it worked great.
 

ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
That is how I usually do it also. I wanted to give this a try and see how it went. Plus it has not gotten above single digits here for temps, so I needed something to do anyway.
 
You always seal the edges when Windexing Mono… If you don't want to use heat, some trim solvent does just fine too.
I've Windexed big stripes like those, and just did a few canopies on profiles. The overnight dry is good, but not necessary if you've done a good job with the squeegee to remove ALL of the liquid from under the Mono.

-Case
 

ericb

Team WTFO
GSN Contributor
Thanks for the info [MENTION=2414]CanCanCase[/MENTION]. It worked well to lay it down nice and smooth. I was not aware at the time that something other than windex was needed to permanently affix it. Next time I will use heat right away instead of waiting overnight.
 
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