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Scale Wendell Hostetler 30% Piper Cherokee Glass Fuselage Build.

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
I did find 1/4" styrene angle to use for trim pieces, lighter and cheaper than the K&S and it is 14" long. Have a 10 pack on the way from Evergreen Scale Models, train folks., $28.
 

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Worked out the throttle and choke servos, the nose wheel servo will be mounted on the left side in the same manner. Was worried about the flex in the firewall possibly breaking the motor mount so the 1/4" thick aluminum strips were added. Once the nose wheel servo is mounted , need to install fiberglass strips around the firewall. The nosewheel is going to get reworked, too long. The original Cherokee was swinging a 25" prop so the gear was lengthen to accommodate, pretty sure this will swing a 22" prop.

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Working on the tail cone as well, laid up three tail cone, wasn't happy with the first two, this one looks to be a winner.

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TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Started fabbing the exhaust. The Saito FG61 exhaust port is a threaded 15mm x 1mm connection. Elbows and flexible tube are provided with the engine. I plan to make the exhaust out of K&S brass tube. I was surprised to find a 15mm x 1mm tap and die set on Amazon. My plan is to make a threaded donut that will screw into the exhaust port and a 5/8" hex threaded nut. The 7/16" K&S brass tube will be fitted with a collar that will get captured between the donut and threaded hex nut. Both exhaust pipes will be "Y" and exhaust in the scale location.

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The plan was to use 15/32" tube for the exhaust. Filled a 12 section with low melting temperature Lab Metal and tried bending the tube in the Amazon tube bender, the tube broke shortly after starting the bend. Next the tube was annealed, it broke at about the 45 degree mark. The exhaust on the Super Cub is 5/8" and the bender has a much larger radius so that's what I'm using now. Was able to bend the tubes for the Super Cub without annealing.

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TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Shorten the upper half of the nose wheel strut and took 3/8" off the nose wheel bearing to make room for the linkage. I don't want to cut the cowl so the nose wheel must be removable to remove the cowl. No big deal, how often do you take the cowl off anyway once things are worked out. Pop the seats out, take the dash out, remove the baffle between the cockpit and engine area, unbolt the cowl, remove the nose wheel, unbolt the prop and there you have it.
It took a while to come up with the drilling setup but worked out and now the Delrin ring and upper half of the strut It took a while to come up with the drilling setup but worked out and now the Delrin ring and upper half of the strut are drilled and tapped for 10-32. are drilled and tapped for 10-32. Found a nice Rocket City 10-32 rod end that I plan to use for the linkage.

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