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Glassing and Painting techniques

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Look up deluxe materials it has a substitute for epoxy. I have used it and it works great and it is quick and dryes quick. It is very close to epoxy. Don't get me wrong epoxy is stronger and harder. But the Deluxe Materials is easier lighter and sands great. Great to use in the home but it is not cheap.
 

dhal22

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Look up deluxe materials it has a substitute for epoxy. I have used it and it works great and it is quick and dryes quick. It is very close to epoxy. Don't get me wrong epoxy is stronger and harder. But the Deluxe Materials is easier lighter and sands great. Great to use in the home but it is not cheap.

Too lazy. I will wait for you to do all the work and show us here.
 
After reading the thread I'm trying to put a high level process outlined for painting.

Starting with a prepared surface either glassed balsa or fiberglass cowl etc...

First coat primer -->

Dry sand 320/fill pinholes with glaze -->

Second coat primer -->

Wet sand 400, optional 600 -->

First coat of colored paint -->

Sand? -->

Second coat of colored paint (two coats each color?) -->

Sand? -->

Coat of clear -->

Sand? -->

Cutting polish/buffing?

If anyone would like to correct mistakes or add anything that would be great!

I'm also wondering what a good strategy for layering colors is...do automotive paints work well painted on top of each other? Have any guidelines for making this work the best?

How is the surface cleaned after sanding?
 

Billy J

50cc
Wet sand / find good DuPont r shop line primer ! Wet sand wet sand. Then drop off with a pro. You'll b money ahead
 

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
If your using an automotive basecoat, clearcoat system, then there is no need to sand between color coats unless you see an issue. You never want to clear over sanded basecoat, it does ugly things sometimes.

A good tip for finding pinholes is to take a powerful beam flashlight and shine it parallel down the surface when it's in gray primer. It makes tiny pinholes look like giant holes, making them easy to find.
 
I would use an auto system.

Otherwise that outline looks right? Do you do much after applying clear? Sanding/cutting polish?
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
I would use an auto system.

Otherwise that outline looks right? Do you do much after applying clear? Sanding/cutting polish?

Wax and grease remover, first step....get it clean. Primer, always use a two part primer so it does not shrink! I learned this the hard way. If you are spraying a light color use a primer sealer.

Lastly, come up here for a day, I have all the tools you can use.:yesss:
 
Wax and grease remover, first step....get it clean. Primer, always use a two part primer so it does not shrink! I learned this the hard way. If you are spraying a light color use a primer sealer.

Lastly, come up here for a day, I have all the tools you can use.:yesss:

That's really nice of you Terry and I just might take you up on that! We've got the equipment down here, but my guidance would be furniture guys and while they do excellent work on furniture I'm sure I'd be missing quite a few of the finer points using automotive paint.
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
That's really nice of you Terry and I just might take you up on that! We've got the equipment down here, but my guidance would be furniture guys and while they do excellent work on furniture I'm sure I'd be missing quite a few of the finer points using automotive paint.

Yea, I've sprayed a lot of wood finish but auto paint is a lot less like spraying glue. When are you doing it, maybe we can take a ride down there? The guns you use for wood finish may not be the best for auto paints, I learned that the hard way too.
 
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